Across Continents

Ken's Blog

The Undefeated

September 23rd, 2011

aluminium all-oo-ne-umb – lightweight metal

I suggested it sounded like a spaghetti Western, half expecting it to feature Clint Eastwood as a hired gun. Had that ring to it. "The Undefeated". But Mary Ann was quite sure. It was a movie about Alaska’s Governor and Presidential hopeful Sarah Palin. Released a month or two ago. Without trace. In Alaska the silence is always deafening.

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I’d met Mary Ann – the English spelling she’d assured me – working in a small bookshop in Palmer. I’d wandered in a little before closing time, looking for maps. Born in Japan, she’d grown up in California but had tired of the encroaching San Francisco suburbs and the smog. Choosing to seek clean air and space. Which Alaska has in spades.

I was quite envious of her. She’d be canal boating. Admittedly to Leeds, but it’s all too easy to inadvertently wander into Yorkshire. Something I always wanted to do, but never quite got around to. Thought it really needed a decent sized group of friends, the sort who got on in a confined space. Mary Ann suggested four was a good number, some of the locks pretty hard work. I favoured being the navigator.

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Pulling teeth

September 23rd, 2011

Careful sip of iced water. Brief pause. Still sat down, rather than finding myself attached to the ceiling. I’d joked with the waitress that might be a little disconcerting for the other diners. Cold drinks far more palatable than tepid coffee. Decided to opt for a baked potato whilst I waited for the powerful antibiotics I’d been prescribed to kick in.

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In Victorian times, explained Monte earlier in the day, dental infections of this sort were a major cause of death. Untreated quickly spreading to more critical parts of the body. Adding that today we didn’t think of these things as life threatening simply because suitable antibiotics were usually readily available to check them. So, I asked, this was definitely a dental emergency? Yes. Absolutely he replied.

But what to do about it? They’d been a few twinges over the past month or so, nothing serious, certainly not enough to actively seek treatment. Until now. We settled on removal, for several previous attempts at saving the tooth had failed to provide a permanent solution. I’d have to wait a further day for the underlying infection to clear up before extraction, and would need to remain close by for at least another twenty four hours in case of clotting complications.

I headed off to a nearby pharmacy torn between being pleased that the root cause of the pain had been uncovered and a solution worked out, and frustration at having to wait around for treatment, unavoidable though that was.

[Author’s note: Intrigued to find, in a land of outrageously expensive healthcare, prescription antibiotics cheaper than in the UK. Painkillers similar, although the ones I’ve got would appear to double as horse tranquilizers. Or maybe bears? When it says on the package "will cause drowsiness" – as opposed to "may" – they’re not joking… And a big thank you to Monte and Jenny at the dental surgery for being so accommodating, generously providing a prognosis and x-rays for free]

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Increasing the pace

September 23rd, 2011

Fourth continent. Increasing the pace in the saddle. And now on the blog, for I’ve ended up quite a bit ahead of it, much more than I’d ever intended. On the ground, running out of Canada as the story unfolding online has me starting out in Alaska. So, time to speed things up a little. Few more posts each day. Something for everyone.

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Sunny side up

September 22nd, 2011

I just love the expression sunny side up. Nice ring to it. But I’d opted for poached. Found a small diner for brunch, eager to eat out in an establishment I thought resembled what I imagined it should look like. Open 24/7, there were small, comfortable booths to sit in, or a bar with stylish metal stools. I’d chosen the former, better placed to observe my fellow diners. I’d forgotten it was a Sunday, late morning, the place busy, mostly with families.

Did I want hash browns or grit? Or at least I thought that was what my server said. Grit, I enquired? Seemed it was corn of some sorts. That could wait. Plenty of time to try it. I’d plump for the safe option. Besides, thought hash browns were American enough for now. And I’d have the obligatory coffee. Generous mug, three refills included.

Bit of a wait for breakfast, but I didn’t mind. Outside it was damp. Inside warm. Chance to catch up on the blog. I’d met a fellow cyclist back in Anchorage who also sought out small cafes as much for the opportunity to write as to have a coffee. I’d often found myself being a bit surreptitious about this. Discreetly tucking myself away. Hunkering down as my fellow traveller had described it. Sometimes I’d simply rise early if I was staying with friends, so as not to appear unsociable.

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When it arrived, the brunch idea had clearly been the sensible option. Fast for much of the morning to build sufficient appetite. Then little more needed for the remainder of the day. They probably hadn’t skimped on the cholesterol, but it certainly wasn’t greasy. Tasty I thought. Top up of coffee, then a little more tapping of the keys.

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Amongst the Mennonites

September 22nd, 2011

It was the bonnets and long dresses that’d caught my eye as I’d wandered into the centre of Palmer. A small town about forty or so miles north of Anchorage. Two young women passing me on their bicycles. A brief exchange of pleasantries. Part, I thought, of some form of orthodox religious community. But a little surprised, that sort of thing being something I’d associated with New England rather than Alaska. Not quite sure why. Certainly no earthly reason. After all, if wanted to pursue your beliefs unhindered by others, a small community in the remote far north would seem to make a lot of sense.

Unsure as to which sect the women might belong to, I’d enquired in a nearby deli. Mennonites thought the conventionally attired woman serving. She’d a family of them as neighbours. Twelve children. Look out for all the churches, she suggested. But where was I from, she asked. I explained. She was leaving for London shortly, off to read Medicine. Would she return to Alaska to practice? Probably not.

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Termination dust

September 22nd, 2011

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They call it termination dust. A light smattering of snow on the higher peaks, the result of summer precipitation at altitude. It’ll soon disappear, for now at least. But not the case in just a few weeks time. Winter rapidly approaching.

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Disturbing evidence

September 21st, 2011

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Seems people’s willingness to talk about voting for Sarah Palin, Alaska’s Governor, is up there with incest. But, along the Old Glenn Highway, north of Anchorage, disturbing evidence of at least one voter prepared to make a public admission..

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On the Old Glenn Highway

September 21st, 2011

On the Old Glenn Highway from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Tired of the traffic on the new Glenn Highway north of Anchorage, Ken chooses to follow the old road into Palmer.

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Why do bears ….. in the woods?

September 21st, 2011

Why bears …. in the woods from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken discovers why bears do **** in the woods..

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In bear country

September 20th, 2011

In bear country from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken makes a brief stop at a camp ground north of Anchorage. In bear country.

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