Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Rock and a hard place

October 22nd, 2011

We met for coffee in downtown Vancouver. Our previous encounter back in one of the former Soviet Central Asian states a year or so earlier. In his nation of birth. But now a Canadian citizen. And we’d kept in touch. Able to chat freely, no need to worry about being overheard, we discussed his country he’d left at some length.

Fledgling democracy, lacking an effective opposition. The State security apparatus might have been weakened by the fall of the old Union, but it was still there, even if its focus had shifted. No longer the evils of Capitalism, instead Islam. My contact had studied abroad with others from his home nation. Only to discover that at least one must surely be an informer, reporting tittle tattle, trivia, back to his masters in the shadows.

But at least, following the collapse of the Soviet Union, he’d been able to travel abroad. For, until then, it’d almost certainly not been allowed. His family considered to be too much of a flight risk. One had been a Hero of the Soviet Union. But another had been imprisoned in a Gulag.

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Societal developments

October 22nd, 2011

It made sense. The degree and distribution of intelligence amongst a given society must surely be largely constant. Independent of its environment. But it was the latter that determined the rate of development. Food surpluses, competition from neighbouring peoples, all fuelling advancement. Which seemed to explain why Australia’s Aboriginal hunter-gatherers had remained firmly in the Stone Age until the arrival of European settlers.

I’d been lent a copy of a book exploring societal developments. Unfortunately unable to read the entire text before I’d be heading off, back on the road. Instead settling on reading the first and last chapters. An articulate, engrossing treatise. But I’d have to return to it later.

Earlier in the evening I’d been discussing the treatment of Australian and North American indigenous people by European settlers. Suggesting that whatever the answer was, the only certainty was that nobody had got it right. Found myself wondering about Africa, where the colonists had pretty much withdrawn. Resolving to go and see for myself.

[The book referred to is "Guns, germs and steel" by Jared Diamond]

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Occupational therapy

October 22nd, 2011

Did I miss work, contributing to society? Yes, actually I did. Explaining I’d found myself compensating by using the blog as a means of sharing my experiences, for better and for worse. This had become very important to me. An unpaid vocation. Sensed she’d felt the same about time off. Almost guilty.

I was spending a few nights with Damien and Gill in Vancouver. Fellow cyclists who travelled through places I’d visited. Urumqi in western China. Almaty in Kazakhstan. They’d even lived in London for a time. Closer to home we’d agreed the highway south from Prince George towards the Route 99 turn-off was a bit dull. Long days she said. I’d nodded.

They’d spent six months riding from Beijing to Paris. A few hassles in China I’d not encountered, the insistence they stay in places approved for aliens. But it had been around the time of the Olympics. Heightened sensitivities.

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Winding roads

October 21st, 2011

It was a terrible guess. German I’d said. No. Was I warm, I’d asked. Yes, she replied. But this really wasn’t the case at all. She was Iranian. Now a Canadian citizen. Explained I’d love to visit her nation of birth, but it’d have to wait until regime change. One sympathetic to the West. Huge reserves of natural gas apparently.

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I’d pulled off the highway a little earlier, soon following Marine Drive through pretty leafy neighbourhoods. Gently winding along the coast towards Vancouver. Smart condos, well-kept gardens. An expensive looking Japanese restaurant. Gentle inclines a welcome change to the tougher gradients I’d encountered on my way south that day. And the rain had finally stopped.

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A quick phone call to my hosts to let them know I was definitely on my way. And then a brief stop at a convenience store, chance encounter with the Iranian woman behind the counter. Quick re-fuel before final push into the city. Soon be sunset.

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Into Vancouver

October 21st, 2011

Into Vancouver from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken finally reaches metropolitan Vancouver as the sun sets…

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Horseshoe Bay

October 21st, 2011

Horseshoe Bay from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken reaches Horseshoe Bay, a little north of Vancouver. Still the metropolis to be tackled, but at least the rain has stopped…

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South towards Vancouver

October 21st, 2011

South towards Vancouver from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken heads south from Whistler towards Vancouver, Capital of Canada’s British Columbia Province. Bit of a wet day…

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Wet Whistler

October 21st, 2011

Wet Whistler from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken explores the 2010 Winter Olympics resort of Whistler.. in the rain… No skiers, just mountain bikers..

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Washed out in Whistler

October 21st, 2011

It should have been simple enough. Ride ahead of fellow cyclist Paul, for my trusty steed and I were somewhat quicker than he and his four-wheeled bikecar, Priscilla. Head for Whistler’s main plaza, locate Marie-Eve and explain that Paul was on his way to meet her, but delayed by some unexpected hills. Should have been. But it wasn’t.

I’d made good time into Whistler, despite the increasingly heavy rain. Only to discover that Whistler doesn’t exactly have a main plaza, rather an extensive pedestrianised area. Those willing to brave the unrelenting icy downpour were well-wrapped, mostly decent waterproofs or plastic ponchos. Little chance of ever spotting Marie-Eve from the description I’d been given.

Refusing to accept the situation for what it was – hopeless bordering on futile – I’d wandered about with my fully laden bike, hoping this might draw Marie-Eve out. But I’d two wheels and she was expecting four. I continued for a few hours, reluctant to give up, occasionally seeking respite under the odd gazebo. Getting ever colder.

Unable to find Marie-Eve, or to locate Paul, whom I was guessing must by now have reached Whistler, it was time to call it a day. For it would be soon be dark, and I’d a further five miles to reach my out-of-town hostel. Disappointing. Hoping Paul at least had more success.

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Paul and Priscilla

October 21st, 2011

Paul and Priscilla from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken encounters fellow British cyclist Paul on the road to Whistler, together with his rather unusual four-wheeled steed Priscilla – a "bikecar"! Check out his website at www.going-solo.co.ukobpostlogo

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