Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Dawn to dusk

December 23rd, 2010

Sunrise - web

First light. On the road. The final push towards Hong Kong. Penultimate day. Thumbs up from a few early morning joggers. Bit between my teeth. Focused riding. Paced, steady. Achilles stable. Sweeping south. The chill early morning air soon replaced with a pleasant warmth.

A late morning stop drew a man and a young boy out of their house. Grandson I thought. They were curious. A cup of hot green tea appeared. And then a bank note. German. 1922. 100,000 Marks. By all accounts almost worthless. How the family came to have it in their possession I couldn’t fathom. Not as if the Germans had invaded. They’d left that to the Japanese.

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Conversing with the locals

December 22nd, 2010

Conversing with the locals from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

In this series of short clips, Ken encounters a couple of locals. And someone else’s teeth. Explains the poor lip-syncing in the opening sequence. So please do not adjust your set.

Instead, admire Ken’s fluency, his innate ability to converse with those he encounters on his travels. Or more likely, be truly horrified. Left wondering if he’s swapped his sun hat for a Pith helmet and a longing for the good old days of the Empire. Well, he is heading for a former British colony.

Incidentally, in the clips the expression "Wo bu mingbai" means "I don’t understand". It crops up quite a bit. A lot actually.

And the cyclist? Eventually worked out that he was intrigued by Emma’s tyres. Did they work on snow? Alas, phrase book didn’t contain quite what was needed to explain "Not really. Only skis and tank tracks really cut the mustard."

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Tight grip in Cantonese country

December 22nd, 2010

Passport or pillion? House rule. Never hand over my papers to anyone. No discussion. No exceptions. So, onto the back of the motorcycle it was. Off across town in search of a photocopier with a young chap from my lodgings. A copy of my passport required for the obligatory aliens registration with local Police.

Problem was I’d never actually ridden pillion before. Not entirely sure what to do. Other than not fall off. Might smart a bit. Even on 125cc machine. Feet were fine. Found some handy footrests. Decided against bear hugging the rider. Didn’t seem quite right. Opting instead for a convenient metal frame I’d found behind the seat. Gripping tightly as we weaved through the early evening traffic.

Road - web

I’d spent the day continuing the push south to Hong Kong. Through what I hoped would be the last of the mountains. Some stiff climbs and exhilarating descents. And a noticeable change in climate. Pleasant. Warm but without the energy sapping high humidity I’d half expected.

Doorway - web

Other changes. Pastel coloured homes, soft shades of brown. Doorways leading into a central courtyard. Easier on the eye than the harsher red bricks of earlier. This was also Cantonese country. Not the Mandarin I was more familiar with, although I’d been assured that I’d be able to get by with my usual nihows and sh-eshe-knees. Which seemed to be the case so far. Or at least, people I met looked no more bemused than normal…

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Memories of summer

December 21st, 2010

Memories of summer from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Inspired by a roadside distance marker, Ken recounts memories of warmer times…

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Catching up…

December 20th, 2010

Deciphering dialing codes. Devising a few phonetic phrases in Mandarin. After all, what would she say when she’d ring through to the place I was staying? I’d primed the staff at the small hotel that I was expecting a call from the UK. Actually, I’d written on a scrap of paper – in Chinese characters – "2200 tonight – Emma Britton – telephone – Ken Roberts – Room 7017" – except our names. Far too difficult.

Bit rudimentary. But it worked. Probably helped by the fact that I’d be the only Westerner in town. Literally. A chance to catch up with Emma, host of BBC Somerset’s The Morning Show. It’d been over a year since we’d spoken. That’d been back in Taunton. Shortly before I’d set off. Amongst the things I’d taken along to the studio was a Christmas Pudding, my luxury item for devouring in Bulgaria. Long gone. But there was a Christmas Cake or two waiting in Hong Kong….

[To the surprise of many of his friends, Ken hates the sound of his own voice. And late-night – in China – radio interviews probably don’t find him at his best. But if you’re snowed in (and even if you’re not!) – and chances are you will be if you’re in the UK Europe – you could always listen to Emma’s show on the BBC iPlayer. 0900-1200 week days. White stuff permitting, the piece should be going out on air in the second half of the programme on Tuesday 21 December 2010. To listen live, or catch up a bit later, click on BBC Somerset iPlayer]

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Late night shopping

December 20th, 2010

Late night shopping. Reasonable size provincial town. South east China. The usual provisions. Various bottled juices for the next day. A few bananas. Instant oats. My breakfast staple if it isn’t provided where I stop.

But something had caught my eye. In a very respectable supermarket. Not some back street affair. Dog. Whole. Well, apart from it’s coat. That’d been shaved off. Resembled some form of racing whippet. Not a good one. Obviously.

Alas, far too many supermarket assistants to be able to take a photograph. And I’m not sure I’d want to publish it – after all, we are supposed to be a nation of dog lovers. As, it seems, are some of the Chinese….

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Daleks, Democracy and Diplomacy

December 19th, 2010

Catching up with news on the web. Finally found an internet broadband connection that doesn’t ressemble dial-up on a go slow. Or a flight out of Heathrow. Not quite good enough for Skype mind. Could hear my parents loud and clear, but gather I sounded like a Dalek. Must pick up some throat lozenges in the morning. Admittedly, I’ve an aversion to stairs. But that’s solely down to being wedded to Emma, my trusty steed.

Alas, found the news a little disappointing. Few flakes of snow and the UK grinds to a halt. Actually, I gather so has much of Europe. But I bet the Swiss railways still run on time.. Then there’s the Democratic Republic of North Korea. Which is the real let-down. It is still there.

Just like Wikileaks. Individuals aside, a story with just about everything. Conspiracy theories. Evading sustained efforts to close it down. Claim and counter-claim as to risk publication of the diplomatic cables poses. Well nigh impossible to establish their release has resulted in loss of life. But actually damaging rather than just embarrassing? Surely anything that’s likely to deter candour behind "closed" diplomatic doors is a bad thing? And with only about one percent out there so far, looks like being a saga that’ll run for longer than it took Iraq to form a coalition Government…

But, with Christmas approaching rapidly, Season of Goodwill and all that, time to finish on a lighter note….so click on Somerset County Gazette article

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Watch me…

December 19th, 2010

Felt a bit rotten. Noticed the hotel security guard was dozing in his small cabin by the entrance ramp. No hesitation. I’d always wanted to do this. Ever since I’d crossed into China. And I’d the perfect combination. No steps into the foyer. Sliding doors. Mid-afternoon so quiet. The day’s sixty or so miles completed at a faster pace than I’d anticipated. On a roll. Ending now with the grand entrance I’d always hoped for.

I’d a line from an old Burt Lancaster film in my head – “You can’t drive through an air raid!” he’s told. “Watch me” he replies. And so it was with the riding directly into the hotel foyer. Around the little fountain. Pulling up smartly by the reception desk. Bemused faces.

I’d a clear conscience. Besides, it allowed me to unload my frustration at the recent blocking of the BBC website in China. Albeit in a very harmless way. Not exactly road rage. Am very fond of news from Blighty. So attempt to thwart my efforts to keep abreast of affairs at home, and you will irritate me. But you won’t succeed. Quite the reverse. For there’s now a curiosity to be satisfied. An explanation to be uncovered. Which I’d done. Call it an intelligent guess. A Nobel one at that.

[Author’s note: And the film? “The Train” from 1964. One of my Dad’s all-time favourites. Rightly so. Compelling story of the efforts of the French Resistance to stop some of their nation’s art treasures being shipped back to Germany by rail. It’d be much easier to prevent shipment today. Just go out on strike. But it was World War Two. And the Germans no respecters of the right to industrial action. Not very British]

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On air… heading south to Hong Kong

December 18th, 2010

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Courtesy of friends at my local community radio station in Somerset, England – www.10radio.org– you can catch up with my regular monthly on air chats with the Saturday Morning WakeUp team.

In this latest episode Ken talks to his good friend and neighbour, Jon, about the Terracotta Warriors, Chinese bureaucracy, and the fun of getting in, and out of, big cities. Just click on the link below to hear the latest instalment. Also includes a mystery guest – who seems to be a bit of a natural on the airwaves! And especial thanks to Anton for his noctural editing.

Download (streaming)

Download (full episode)

[If you enjoyed listening to this broadcast, or any of their other programmes – you can listen online – please do consider making a donation]

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On the menu

December 18th, 2010

Menu 2 - web

Don’t get me wrong. I’m always grateful for a menu in English. Very. But some of the translations do bring a wry smile to the face. Surprising what three Yuan – about thirty pence – will buy….

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