Across Continents

Ken's Blog

London callings

February 5th, 2012

Layer Cake. Quite sure. Sat enjoying a mug of tea in Westminster’s Regency Cafe, I’d soon realised it’d been the film setting for a rather violent altercation. The plain, functional interior felt too perfect, too neat, to be real. But it was. Told it’d made the Telegraph’s Top Ten for places to breakfast. But with a very down-to-earth clientele.

My request for Eggs Benedict twice had been greeted with a friendly acknowledgement that it was simple order. I took this to mean quick. Which would be good. Much needed sustenance to alleviate baggy heads after an evening with friends. One of whom, and on who’s sofa I’d spent the night, had taken me the short distance to the cafe.

I’d headed into London for a couple of days. Few calls to make. Royal Geographical Society. The Outward Bound Trust. Discussing what happens next. Reports to be written. Funds to be raised. Finding myself ever more comfortable living out of a small rucksack. Settled into a transitory existence. For now at least.

When it came, our breakfast order was announced with a clarity, a diction any Shakespearean actor would have been justly proud of. And not too soon. Earlier recollections of empty wine bottles and the few remaining dregs of a decent port needing to be expunged.

[With especial thanks to friends Mark, John and Dan, plus Shane and Amy at the Royal Geographical Society, and Kristina and the team at The Outward Bound Trust]

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Cultural differences

February 5th, 2012

A young woman had complained to the bus driver as she’d disembarked. A man upstairs with a dog. He’d been drinking. Shouting abuse at her and her friend she’d said. The driver did nothing. There’d been a man with a Mohican and rather odd looking long narrow leather boots board. I’d seen him earlier drifting around the centre of Corby. Surreptitiously. But, appearances apart, I was sure he wasn’t the miscreant.

Corby had surprised me. If there was anything left of the steel industry it was well hidden. The only noticeable remanent a sizeable share of the locals with cod Glaswegian accents. As unintelligible as the original. I’d travelled over to use the rather splendid international pool. Presumably so called to secure some European funding. The small, friendly cafe marked Burns Night with haggis.

It sat next to the only other aesthetically pleasing building in Corby. On the outside at least. The Cube. Home to a small theatre, civic offices. And a library. Generous large print section. And bewilderment at my enquiry as to whether they had WiFi. A series of ramps rather than floors suggested a multi-storey car park with change of use.

I’d alighted from the bus in Oundle. Home to a prestigious private school woven deep into the life of the small county town. Venturing into one of a number of smart cafes for a coffee. A woman of Mediterranean origin discussing her daughter’s prospects in the music industry. And hopes for modelling contract. She sat nearby chatting to friends in French.

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Finding my feet

February 5th, 2012

Frustrating. No, explained the clerk mostly hidden behind the counter, they couldn’t actually access my cycle reservation and print off the ticket. The one I’d been told was absolutely essential to board with a bike. He shrugged his shoulders. I did likewise and then wandered off. Pointless.

The woman on the ticket barrier was much more helpful. I’d explained my predicament. She understood. Yes, she assured me, I’d be allowed to board when I returned in a few days time with my brother’s bike. I’d be my only form of independent transport for a while. Of course, I’d my trusty steed. But nobody takes a Lamborghini to the supermaket.

I was off to the Norfolk coast to spend a couple of days helping my brother and his family move house. Sold to me as a fine tonic for jet-lag. And chance to start the long process of catching up with family and friends.

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Big Silver Bird

February 4th, 2012

Dull and grey. Thirties semis below. Partly obscured by wisps of cloud. West London. Soon to be on the ground. Flight over had been tolerable. Aroused from my dozing by a mediocre breakfast. As dull as dinner the previous evening. The cabin crew were pleasant enough. Mature. One, I thought, resembled Rolf Harris. But the whole thing lacked sparkle. But I didn’t doubt the coffee was freshly brewed. From old socks.

The final few days across Florida had been hectic. Unrelenting rain on the final hundred mile push to the coast. But a little kindly respite once I’d reached the finish. Intersection of the 206 and the A1A. Not a photogenic spot I’d admit, but I’d not really cared for that. Just glad to be able to head off a short way to find Ron and Nancy, with whom I’d be spending a couple of nights. Hot shower beckoned.

I’d deliberately pushed hard towards the end. Eager to have a whole day off the road to sort out my trusty steed and all the kit, preparing it for the rigours of the baggage handlers. And a chance to have a sociable evening with Ron and Nancy. Mark the end of my fourth continent.

Next morning I’d started in earnest. Rental car. Free upgrade to something more practical. Thrift shop for a couple of cheap suitcases. Nancy had already found me a cardboard bike box from a local shop. It’d be tight, but I was sure I’d be able to fit my loyal companion in. She’d be in pieces of course. Lots of them.

Five hours sleep. Then the three hundred mile sprint south to Miami International. They’d said six hours. Made it in five. Including lunch. Two and a half litres and an Interstate had been fun. I’d half expected dramas dragging everything to Check-in, but in the end a few helpful souls from the rental car company had lent a hand. Soon where I’d wanted to be. Drinking coffee close to the departure gate. Three hours to kill.

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Return to Fitzhead

February 4th, 2012

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A plan coming together… Return to my delightful Somerset village of Fitzhead. Riding back in at 2pm sharp Saturday 11 February 2012. A staggering 892 days and close on 20,000 miles since leaving. Makes me weep just thinking about it. Suppose that’s leather saddles for you. Things I’ll do for a generous slice of cake and a glass of bubbly. But staying off the kumus – fermented mare’s milk.

Very much looking forward to catching up with friends, I’d be absolutely delighted if you were to join me at the finish. Rumours even I might have a tear or two in my eye. No bear spray of course. And if you’re unable to make it, you should at least be able to listen online to yours truly chatting earlier in the day about the whole adventure with BBC Somerset’s Emma Britton. About 10.15 am – click here for a link to the BBC iPlayer.

Getting there….

The village lies roughly ten miles west of the county town of Taunton. If you’re coming from afar, it’s usually best approached from nearby Wellington, leaving the M5 at Junction 26, close to Taunton Deane Services. Use the Taunton exit only if you like to be ensnared in traffic…

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Fitzhead is divided into roughly three parts, each with its own focal point – the old church, the manor house, and errr… the other bit.. The official finish is outside the (sadly now closed) Fitzhead Inn (on right hand side in photo above) – pop my TA4 3JP postcode into Google Earth and you’ll land on it.

[With especial thanks to Sue and Roger, Anton, Jon and Helen, Peter, Tony and Sarah and the Fitzhead Community Group, and Emma Britton at BBC Somerset]

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