Ken's Blog

Across the Caucasus, from semi-Tropical western Georgia, the more temperate central region, and now swiftly moving into semi-arid desert. Mid-May, and soon the little greenery left would be gone, just parched, stony earth.

Frequent water stops now. Tempting water melons stacked high on stalls at the roadside. A few Iranian lorries, sweeping past me. Definitely Asia. Eighty kilometres – about fifty miles – to Baku (or ’Baki’) and the Caspian Sea coast. End of the Caucasus was close.

[Author’s note: Inadvertently reaffirming his lack of knowledge of football, seems the English coach at Gabala mentioned in a recent post is in fact Tony Adams, not Adamson. Still didn’t find him. With thanks to Dom, Danny and Mark]

Think I’m usually fairly liberal, but I’d been feeling a bit conservative over the last few days. I’d been labouring under the misunderstanding that shorts were considered rude in Azerbaijan, a secular state but with Islam the dominant religion. But no, I was told in Sheki, perfectly acceptable for cycling. With temperatures easily in the mid-twenties, welcome news.

East of Sheki a decent road, good progress towards the town of Gabala. Sturdy bridges across wide river beds, the torrents of icy melt water now passed. Snows remaining now just on the upper slopes and faces of the Greater Caucasus Range, peaks of over twelve thousand feet. Stark contrast with the ever increasing temperatures in the valleys below.

Not exactly the beaten track, but you sensed tourists did come this way. I’d stopped to try some warm, freshly baked bread, cooked in brick pits at the roadside. “Photo?” I was asked. But I felt certain that the bread making wasn’t staged just for visitors, for much of the traffic on the road seemed to be local. And what did bring people here – sight of the Greater Caucasus Range, or the local flora?

But then back to the road, heading for the Capital Baku on the shores of the Caspian Sea. Just needed to keep the mountains on the left.

Along the Silk Roads – Night in the Caravanserai from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken describes a night in a converted Caravanaserai – roughly the Silk Roads equivalent of British Drovers Inns – in the Azerbaijan town of Sheki.

It’d fellow English cyclist Bill to thank. He’d told me of an old Caravanserai – roughly the Silk Roads equivalent of the British Drovers Inns – in Sheki that had been tastefully converted into an atmospheric hotel. Sounded much more appealing than some Soviet era concrete monstrosity, the prices – they apparently vary randomly from room to room – quite reasonable.

Even by Sheki’s standards, where everywhere is uphill, there was a tough final section, although by now I’d the relative cool of the evening in my favour. But no certainty of somewhere to stay. Fortunately there was a room available, tucked away inside its own archway, simply furnished but in keeping with the character of the place. I liked it. Rest at last.

Progress was slow, carefully picking a path through the multitude of potholes. Despite the heat, the track still muddy from thunderstorms the previous night. I’d opted for the direct route – the old road – from Zaqatala to the small town of Kakh (also known as Qax). Started well enough. I’d contemplated turning back as the road surface deteriorated, having hoped for quicker progress to my eventual destination, the town of Sheki. But then there’d be a teasing stretch of tarmac, suggesting the worst was over. So I kept going. And then Kakh. Not so bad after all, just slow.

Thirsty, I’d stopped at one of Kakh’s small shops. The road outside was unmade, but inside it was modern, smart, and but for a few less familiar items on its shelves, I could have been back in the UK. Enquiring about the road ahead – forty or so kilometres to the town of Sheki – a small committee formed, the debate intense. Roads, I learnt, were described as narrow or wide, which also, it seemed, equated to unmade or made. The outcome was that I should return to the main road, rather than take the direct route. It’d be much quicker.

In the midst of the discussions one man had offered to take me to his house for food, indicating I should leave Emma inside the shop. A generous offer, and I’d liked the young, helpful couple that ran the place, but leaving everything I had with strangers was out of the question. So, I explained the banana I’d just eaten was sufficient when cycling, anything more and I might be sick. Just hoped he didn’t misinterpret my various animations.

Seven hours later I reached Sheki, forty kilometres from Kakh by the direct route. True, it was fairly swift riding, the roads good. But what had appeared to be twenty or so kilometres longer on my map was actually more like a hundred, little shade, hot, uncomfortable. Long, drawn out climbs, gentle but subtly sapping your energy.

Realising I was in for a long, steady haul, not the relatively short day I’d hoped for, I stopped in the late afternoon for a decent snack at a roadside cafe. A few tables neatly arranged in a grove of trees, welcome shade. Unsure of what was on offer, I wandered into the kitchen. In the dim interior the cook showed me various pots simmering on the stove. I plumped for one, indicated just a small serving, and waited to see what turned up.

Back outside in the relative cool beneath the trees, I was joined at my table by the enthusiastic owner. I’d not long been explaining my venture when the food arrived. Tasty liver and potato stew, generous side order of fresh vegetables, bread and a glass of some sort of set yoghurt. Thought I’d give dairy a miss, but otherwise an impressive spread. Payment was emphatically refused, and I left with a bag of small cakes and a stash of chocolate to boot.