Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Tropical times ahead…

January 21st, 2011

Cheese toasties and ice cold Aussie beer. After forty hours on the move, no finer welcome. I’d finally made it to a small hostel in Cairns, Northern Queensland. Few hours to spare before the New Year. Greeted by Rowan and Yuki. Shortly before landing at the nearby airport, the pilot had quipped it was raining. Smirks from the locals. For this was the wet season. The town up in the tropics. Very humid. Only the unwise wander out without an umbrella. Torrential downpours frequent.

Emma, my trusty steed, and I had come to Cairns, far up on Australia’s eastern seaboard, ready to ride south back towards Sydney. Chosen on the advice of Australians Brian and Savannah we’d stayed with back in Azerbaijan. A much better idea, they’d suggested, than Darwin I’d been toying with. Crossing the continent north to south.

I’m assuming that, unlike Central Asia or China, most people are at least familiar with the basic shape of Australia. Working on the assumption that if you’re struggling with that, you’ve yet to discover the internet and read this. And you probably do think Fooknose really is a town in China. Despite seeming to crop up quite a bit when asking for directions. So no hand-drawn maps. For the moment.

My route straightforward, conceptually at least. South along the east coast towards Sydney and Melbourne. City of Brisbane roughly half-way along. Tropical in the north. Just plain hot in the south. The latter familiar territory after the Kazak Steppe and the deserts of Western China. The former presenting new challenges. Hot, humid climate. Snakes. Poisonous spiders. Mosquitos. Dengue Fever. And not forgetting the old favourite. Crocodiles. Luckily they’re not venomous, so their bite need not be fatal…

Share

Infectious diseases

January 8th, 2011

Tropics. Infectious diseases. Dengue Fever. And influenza. Yep. Alas, not a typo. The real thing. Been doing the rounds in the hostel. Not what I’d expected. But succumbed I had. Knew, from a bout a decade or so ago, this was flu proper. Lethargy, aches, terrible cough. And like Dengue, nothing to do but wait for it to pass. Frustrating. Whole new continent to explore.

On the bright side, even a cheap hostel room has air con. And TV so able to catch up on all those mostly British soaps I’d normally never watch. Then there’s been the Ashes coverage. Enough said about that. Besides, there’s extensive flooding to the south. Roads closed and likely to stay shut for a little while.

And I’d always planned to have a short break in Cairns, acclimatizing and catching up. Feeling pleased I’d decided to opt for a full tourist visa, reckoning the normal three months wouldn’t be quite enough. Just need to weather the storm. Before I encounter my first cyclone….

Share

Room at the inn

December 20th, 2010

Final piece of the jigsaw. Somewhere to stay in Cairns, at the north end of Australia’s eastern seaboard. Palpable relief. The thought of arriving late on New Year’s Eve, having flown overnight from Hong Kong, without a bed secured, not an attractive idea. What normally passes for wit and repartie likely to be a bit thin by then.

I’d envisaged no room at the inn. Being New Year and all that. There was the tent of course. But at close to midnight? And a boxed up bicycle. In pieces for transit. All told about fifty kilograms of baggage. Not an attractive prospect for the sleep deprived.

Part of me was working on the principal that as I’d pretty much cuffed campsites, hostels, lorry cabs, truck stops and cheap Chinese hotels, I’d eventually find something in Cairns. Hadn’t failed yet. Besides, you will sleep somewhere. And I’d booked my air tickets, got the cheapest deals I could find. I was going.

Nevertheless, I stoically ecstatic when I did find somewhere. Small hostel. Own room. Chance to self-cater. Reminded me a little of the Ramplas Hostel in Malta I’d stayed in back in the spring. And Rowan the manager very accommodating to my expected late night arrival. Marked the occasion with a fresh cup of tea.

Share

Bah humbug…

December 9th, 2010

New Years Eve in Sydney. Australia’s cultural Capital. And I wasn’t looking forward to it. Not a bit. Truth was, I’d be arriving early in the morning on an overnight flight from Hong Kong. Then there’d be a twelve hour wait for my connection to Cairns, the starting point for my southerly run along the east coast. Reckoned on arriving at lodgings close to midnight.

Much as I might want to see in the New Year – and my third continent – in style, the grim reality is that after being deprived of all but a modicum of sleep the previous night, a vat or two of caffeine in domestic departures… I think you get the picture. Of course, there are earlier connections. And better days to travel. But a lot more expensive. Even toyed with the idea of temporary membership of an airline lounge to take some of the pain away, but the airlines have already wised up to that scam one.

Booking the flights has been enough of an experience. Shades of colonic irrigation. Some people enjoy it. I don’t. Actually, that’s the easy bit. The real fun starts with the excess baggage rules and charges. For which possession of a bicycle appears to be viewed as something of an aggravating factor. Complicated further by using, of necessity, two separate airlines with different requirements and fees. Makes the various Central Asian visa and immigration rules look like they’d merit a Plain English award.

Scales - web

So. No plans to saw the handle off my toothbrush. It folds. Or fly into tropical Cairns wearing my down jacket. Far too light. But I do know exactly how much all the kit weighs. Courtesy of a set of children’s bathroom scales. About £2.50 from a Chinese Walmart.

And I’ve also worked out how to legitimately exploit the carry-on luggage rules to their fullest extent. I’ll be the one boarding with a full seven kilograms in my bag. Maps and notebooks (’reading material’) in my pockets. Netbook and cameras carried separately. Whilst wearing my iPod. Pondered – albeit briefly – what to do with one of my spare folding tyres. Ressembles a cricketer’s protective box. Sort of.

Frustrating? Yes. Time-consuming? Yes. And I’d had help. A lot. No need to shop around the various airlines. My parents had very kindly done that for me. Simply had to follow their advice. Which I’d done. To the letter. And also pleased I’d already got my Australian visa. Saved a few more hours online. And my sanity. Just needed to get across the de-facto border from mainland China into Hong Kong. But that’s another story….

[Author’s note: You may be surprised to know that the English language version of the Kazakhstan visa and immigration rules probably does merit a Plain English award. Invaluable for fending off corrupt border guards. Sadly not available in hardback]

Share
Terms & Conditions of Use | Copyright © 2009-2024 Ken Roberts