Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Defining feature

January 27th, 2012

I’d long pondered what really defined the First World. There’d be a UN metric of course. But I’d sought something more tangible, substantive. Drawing on observations of North America, Australia, New Zealand, Hong Kong and Western Europe. Contrasting these with upwardly mobile nations such as Turkey, Republic of Georgia and China.

Toyed with ideas such as universal health care provision. But that didn’t work for much of North America. Cuba excepted. Similarly the eradication of poverty. That popped up everywhere in varying degrees. Individual freedoms, such as those of expression or the right to protest, were indicators. Same for democracy and the absence of corruption amongst daily life. But nations such as Singapore precluded these as being defining features.

Then it’d hit me. There’d been signs. Literally. Dog grooming. For if a society could afford pampered pets, it pretty much had the fundamentals in order. An empirical analysis, but one I thought pretty rigorous.

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Fried Green Tomatoes

January 26th, 2012

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I’d sought lunch at Sally’s place back in Ponce De Leon. Two minutes I’d said. Fifteen minutes ago. So I’d got up and left. My server seemingly unaware of my disgruntled departure, despite having just three customers to attend to. Disappointing. Enticing kitchen aroma, and some sensibly priced choices on the menu.

Reminded me a little of a cafe bakery in Portmadoc a few years ago. Quickly apparent they’d no intention of ever serving me. If they’d actually had the decency to say so I’d not have minded so much. But they hadn’t. Instead the silent treatment. Cowardice in the second degree. Sort of thing they invented firing squads for.

But then I’d stumbled on a sign for the Whistle Stop Cafe. About ten miles further on in Westville. No fried green tomatoes, but the cook insisted I try their deep fried Oreos. Served drizzled with melted chocolate and dusted with icing sugar, the usually dry cookies transformed into a soft, sweet filling. Moorish I’d said.

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Whistle Stop Cafe

January 26th, 2012

Ken stumbles on the Whistle Stop Cafe. In Westville. Alas, fried green tomatoes not on the menu. But there are deep fried Oreos

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Sunshine State

January 25th, 2012

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Florida had a neatness that’d been mostly lacking in the poorer Southern States of Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama. Home, I’d been told, of Seaside, setting for the flawless world of Jim Carey’s The Truman Show. I’d taken few photos since leaving Texas, simply because there wasn’t much to catch my eye. Or the camera would have drawn unwelcome attention. Wrong part of town.

I’d spent my first night in Florida down in the naval town of Pensacola. Staying with Ray and Donna. Eclectic contents gave their home character. Collectors rather than hoarders, with something of an underlying nautical theme. Small model sail boats in the bathroom.

They’d warned me I’d soon hit hills. Well known simply because they were the only ones in the entire State. Just my luck. But, in practice, they’d not been too bad at all. Kept me warm, for Sunshine State it might be, cold it certainly was. Following Highway 90 north east towards Milton had been tedious, small shoulder and frequently inconsiderate traffic. I’d noticed the town of Bagdad a short distance to the south, on the banks of the Blackwater river. Wondering if this was merely coincidence – the latter being a private military company with a tarnished reputation in Iraq.

The afternoon was warmer, winter gloves returned to the panniers, with quieter roads for much of the way to Crestview and a stop for the night. And the discovery my can of WD40 had discharged much of its contents into one of my bags. Deep joy.

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On the Blackwater trail

January 25th, 2012

Funny thing coincidences. East of Pensacola. Small town of Bagdad. Close by the Blackwater river. Also the name of a errr… controversial security company that’s been under quite a bit of scrutiny for its activities in Iraq. Probably nothing in it….

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Outbound from Pensacola

January 25th, 2012

Ken heads out of Pensacola, off to the only hills in the entire State of Florida. Apparently.

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Sketchy departure

January 24th, 2012

Simple plan. Of sorts. Across Alabama Bay then pick up Highway 90 back to the coast at Pensacola. And into Florida. Save for the exit from Mobile, and the final section, I’d no map. Reliant instead on a rough sketch I’d made of the route in my pocket book. Penned an outline, annotated with a few major intersections and one town – Loxley – to serve as headmarks.

Except I’d overlooked the need for a bit of a detour through north Mobile to reach the causeway across the bay. Bicycles prohibited from using the more direct tunnel route. Obliged instead to ride through Alabama State Docks. Numerous rail tracks. Scrap yards. A wrong turn. Tedious.

Beyond the bay progress had picked up. Long straight stretch of highway, rolling far into the distance. Then Loxley. Lunch stop and chance to assess progress. I’d forty or so miles to go, and just over three hours of daylight left.

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Goodbye Sweet Home Alabama

January 24th, 2012

Ken says goodbye to Sweet Home Alabama. Heading into Florida, the Sunshine State…

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Frustrations

January 23rd, 2012

I disliked Mobile. A few wide leafy boulevards. Smart Convention Centre. Well-kept. But surprisingly arrogant drivers. Two spotty young men in a pick-up shouting abuse. Tooting on the horn. All talk but no trousers. Children on a school bus tossing an apple out the window at me. Poor anticipation by other road users of my presence – tens of yards – amongst the worst I’ve ever seen. Hassled for directions by another motorist whilst clearly engrossed in conversation on my cell.

Seeking a short break from the frustrations of the road, I’d stopped at a gas station and ordered a freshly made sub. Clearly enunciated what I wanted. Slowly. But the sandwich artist wasn’t listening, too busy swapping tittle-tattle with her co-workers. Even when I repeated it, albeit with a few teasing changes. Live squid with petroleum jelly on Sourdough. Outside I sat watching cars come and go from the disabled bay. Profiling the occupants. Little evidence of physical impairment.

I’d left Dauphin Island after an early lunch. GulfView Cafe down on the golf course. One of just two such establishments open. And I’d visited the other the previous day. Bright day but strong winds. I’d waited to see if they’d subside a bit. Forlorn hope the ferry might run. But it hadn’t. Few oil rigs out in the bay. Gulf of Mexico. Some just miles away, others dots in the distance.

Retracing my steps off the island across the causeway hadn’t been as bad as I thought it might have been. Windy, but steady and on the port bow rather than the perfect cross wind I’d feared. Blowing across the carriage way afforded me some protection, and meant I’d not be pushed into the traffic if caught unawares.

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Deja vu… again

January 23rd, 2012

Ken’s back at Alabama Port. Less than forty eight hours since he’d passed through on his way to Dauphin Island and an aborted attempt at a ferry along the coast.

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