Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Carol’s place

January 10th, 2012

Ken spends a night at cycling host Carol’s place…

obpostlogo

Share

Carmine collectables

January 10th, 2012

Dusk in Carmine. Lots of antique shops…

obpostlogo

Share

Rocket science

January 9th, 2012

It was a German, explained Doris, who’d got men to the moon. She seemed very proud of this. First generation German-American. Yes, I said, von Braun. He’d surrendered to US Forces at the end of World War Two. Adding I didn’t blame him. The alternative years in a Russian Gulag or put to work for the Soviet military machine. If you’re lucky rewarded with your own Trabant and an extra bowl or two of borscht.

But not a man, I explained, popular back in England. Something to do with dropping V-2 rockets onto London. Not the sort of thing that’d exactly endear you to local residents. Probably the same reason Bomber Harris never got Christmas Cards from Dresden. Funny thing was more people had died building the missiles than had ever been killed on the ground.

obpostlogo

Share

Zee Germans

January 9th, 2012

Ken meets Doris in the East Texan town of Warrenton. Fluent German speaker… Quite a few of them around there, apparently. And some Czechs.

obpostlogo

Share

Steady hand

January 9th, 2012

Two signs caught my eye. "Gun control is a steady hand". And "Never trust a Skinny Cook". And he believed in loyalty. Committed to the hamburger, the single substantive option on the menu. Choice of extras – likes of processed cheese, mayo or mustard – the only permitted variations.

I’d stopped at a cafe at the junction of the 153 and the 77. Supposedly nothing there, according to my map at least. Welcome surprise. Earlier Winchester but the grocery store was closed. Just a Steakhouse with lots of utility workers trucks parked up outside. I’d paused briefly then carried on.

The day hadn’t started well. Adhering to the route shown on the cycling map, I’d sought to enter Bastrop State Park. Four bucks but told the road ahead was closed. "How closed?" I’d asked. "Closed" I’d been firmly told. Was certain I’d be able to get through, but could hardly fein ignorance now if caught. And I knew all about State Parks Police.

obpostlogo

Share

Hamburgers or bust

January 9th, 2012

Ken stumbles across a small cafe. And the menu? Hamburgers… Yep, that’s it. Choice of toppings mind…

obpostlogo

Share

Winchester

January 9th, 2012

Ken makes a brief stop in the East Texan settlement of Winchester.. Closed. But a nice church…

obpostlogo

Share

Unexpected detour

January 9th, 2012

A recent wildfire forces Ken to take a bit of a detour…

obpostlogo

Share

Shades of the Eighties

January 8th, 2012

In the corner a small television. Mexican news channel. Police manning a road block, their faces obscured by balaclavas, despite the obvious heat. I joked to the woman on the adjacent table that this must surely be a profession as accident prone as being an Iranian nuclear scientist. Quickly adding I meant those working on their peaceful weapons programme. The sort who seem – not infrequently – to fall victim to drive-by shootings or other unfortunate events. She smiled.

These supposedly random events, I suggested, were a fine alternative to well.. thermonuclear war. Got my vote I said. Grinning. And the Iranians were raising the stakes. Threatening to close off the Straits of Hormuz. Block a sizeable chunk of the West’s oil supply. Shades of the Eighties. The Tanker War. She looked bemused. Left wondering how good a grasp of English she had.

I’d stopped in a small Mexican cafe in Cedar Creek. Small intersection town thirty or so miles east of Austin. Few houses, gas station and a bright white wooden Methodist church. I’d left the city three hours earlier, waved off by fellow cyclist Francis. He’d suggested various routes towards Bastrop, my destination for the night. I’d declined, citing I preferred to stick with what was on my strip map. Retracing my steps from the hostel back to 7th Avenue.

A largely uneventful journey. Brief coffee stop under what quickly transpired to be the busy flight path of Austin’s international airport. And a driver who’s behaviour I found as baffling as it was bizarre. Ample room to pass me on the quiet two-lane highway, not least because I was riding in the adjacent cycle lane. But instead she chose to sit in my port quarter. Pressing on the horn. Presumably wanting me to move still further over. Simply couldn’t oblige. It’d be rewarding stupidity. Which I never did. Ran contrary to Darwin’s Theory of Natural Selection.

obpostlogo

Share

Austin-tacious

January 8th, 2012

Austin had been all I’d hoped it would be. For Christmas that is. I’d arrived late on Christmas Eve, cold and wet. A reservation that’d slowly crept right a few days. The hostel had been very accommodating, but I feared they thought I might never actually turn up. Bit like the navigator in The Ascent of Rum Doodle.

There’d been the usual collection of characters you oft find in travellers hostels the world over. I say that with especial confidence now. Youthful individuals, vibrant. A few yet to refine their social skills. Older types. Usually more seasoned. Stoic. Odd one who aspires to earlier times. All very middle class.

Spending much of my life outdoors, I’d found inside to have an attraction all of its own. Cities per se rarely inspire, preferring the smaller places. Exceptions of course. San Francisco for example. And there’d been plenty to do around the hostel before my return to the road.

Finding comfort in doing stuff – a warming sense of accomplishment – I’d joined a few local volunteers help prepare Christmas Dinner in the hostel kitchen. Stacks of calls on Skype to family and friends to wish all a festive greeting. Catching up on the blog. Eager to keep the writing fresh. Perhaps a bit more edgy.

And giving my trusty steed a quick overhaul – just enough to keep her running smoothly until I reach the Florida coast in about fifteen hundred miles or so. If it ain’t broken don’t fix it…. Hard lesson to learn. And a realisation that this’d be the last decent service I’d be doing before arriving back in the UK.

And I was about to start the final push. Complete my traverse of North America, from top left – Alaska – to bottom right – Florida. Over six thousand miles. Fourth continent. Still leaving me a few hundred back in the UK to bring cycling solo around the world to a conclusion. But I was already beginning to smell the coffee. Putting out tentative feelers for what I might do next. The transition back into more conventional living.

I’d made a little list, as I often did, of things to mull over in the saddle. Some straightforward stuff. Amusing statistics from the last few years. Memorable moments. For better or for worse. That sort of thing. And more challenging questions. What had I really learnt. There’d not quite been any Road to Damascus encounters but I’d certainly a few changed perspectives. For one thing, the World is now a much smaller place.

But if I was ever to get too engrossed in self-analysis, a trip to the local supermarket is often a good cure-all. I’d wandered up to the local ’H-E-B Plus’. Intrigued to see a vagrant decline the offer of some small change from a few passing shoppers. Just when you think you’ve seen most things…. Time now to go and sew one of my boots back together. Been waiting for it to dry out…

obpostlogo

Share
Terms & Conditions of Use | Copyright © 2009-2025 Ken Roberts