Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Coffee and cakes

September 30th, 2011

WhiteRiver (7)

We’d asked for just coffee but got complimentary cakes as well. Left from dinner last night, explained Amanda. She was originally from the north of England, but had grown up in Ireland and had a soft Irish accent. I was curious as to how she’d ended up running a campground in Canada’s Yukon Province. She’d found the place whilst on holiday, she explained. Had fallen in love with it.

I thought her quite charming, welcoming. An absolute delight to chat with. It was a shame to leave and return to the road, but necessary none the less. In truth, I’d been intrigued about stopping there. One hardened ride, a chiseled chap called Craig, had encouraged us to stop by. Others were absolute in their conviction that the owners hated cyclists. I’d very much doubted this.

So we’d popped in. "Your reputation proceeds you!" I’d said jovially. If Mike had winced at this, I’d not noticed as he was behind me. Discovering, a bit later, that if you do go around insisting that the provision of free drinking water is your human right, chances are, you won’t get such a warm welcome. Which seemed to go quite a long way to explaining the very differing views on stopping there.

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White River

September 30th, 2011

White River from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Mike and Ken reach the White River, one of many Yukon river tributaries, about thirty miles inside Canada’s Yukon Province. Stopping a short distance later at White River RV – recreational vehicle – park for coffee and cake with owner Amanda.

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Bedtime in Beaver Creek

September 29th, 2011

Bedtime in Beaver Creek. Mike had already retired to his tent. Found myself taking refuge from the gentle rain in the unlocked entrance hall of the 1202 Motor Lodge, in whose grounds we were camped. Reading the local telephone directory. More than a pamphlet but hardly a weighty tome.

We’d been told that in the summer this small border town swells to at least two hundred people. Just one tourist attraction. She works in Buckshot Betty’s restaurant. Serves a great dinner. And breakfast.

There’d been a little method in my apparent madness flicking through the phone book. Looking for a number for someone we were hopeful of staying with in a couple of days time. Took about three minutes.

[Please forgive the alleged humour… it’s that or lots of beaver jokes.. Truth is, neither Mike or I had the proverbial’s to ask if such critters were on the menu..]

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Buckshot Betty’s

September 29th, 2011

Buckshot Betty’s. If you wanted to eat out in Beaver Creek, it was the only show in a very small town. And we did. It’d been a long day. Neither of the two ATMs were working. Both empty, not expected to be refilled for a week or so. But, explained our server, they could take Mastercard or US Dollars at a push. We could eat.

She’d a curious accent. Seemed familiar, but I was too tired to ask. Instead a fellow diner let slip she was from Melbourne. Over here on a working visa. Quite why she’d chosen such a remote Yukon outpost no one seemed to know. Never quite seemed to be an opportune moment to enquire.

We’d planned to push on from Beaver Creek towards White River but Mike’s flat tyre had meant there’d be a good chance we’d be running short on daylight. Instead settling on a night in the very small border settlement before pressing on the next morning. Finding little difficulty convincing ourselves that a decent meal would be just reward for crossing twenty five miles of no man’s land into Canada.

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Beaver Creek

September 29th, 2011

Beaver Creek from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Beaver Creek. Mike and Ken’s first stop in Canada’s Yukon Province. Ken captures pretty much all of Beaver Creek on film. And marvel at him getting a few of the place names confused…

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Not deflated

September 29th, 2011

Not deflated from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Barely into Canada, Mike has his first puncture on the road. And seem remarkably cheerful about the experience…

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Officer 21113

September 29th, 2011

US Customs and Border Protection Officers had names. Canadian ones had numbers. Mine was Officer 21113. Blonde. Mike and I had joined in the small line of cars waiting to be admitted into the country. I’d have said crossed into, but we’d already ridden twenty five miles through Canada to reach the Customs post at Beaver Creek.

I’d been a bit nervous leaving Alaska. No checkpoint on the outbound side of the US Customs post. Fearful I’d need show some sort of exit stamp to the Canadians, I’d pulled over to the inbound side to ask if I’d need something put into my passport. No, I was assured, this wasn’t necessary. Carry on to Canada.

Officer 21113 referred to it as an interview. I thought it more a chat, describing my intended route through the Yukon and British Columbia. Just one pertinent question. Why did I have a US visa? She seemed reassured when I explained it was simply because I needed more than the three months the normal waiver would allow me. Stamp in passport. Six months entry.

Canada - Immigration - entry stamp - Beaver Creek - 19 Aug 11

I’d half expected to be asked how I’d support myself, what ties I had to the UK, that sort of thing. But no. Rather, it was Mike who got asked the more searching questions. But then he did have a beard.

[Please note that the Canadian Customs and Border Protection Officer’s number has been ever so slightly changed to protect her identity.. And Mike’s beard does look terribly respectable. For UK nationals note that the six months I’ve been granted by the US and Canada runs from the day of entry, irrespective of the number of times I cross their mutual borders]

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Into no man’s land

September 29th, 2011

Into No Mans Land from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Mike and Ken make a brief, if damp, stop at the last Alaskan roadhouse before the Canadian border – and a whole twenty five miles of no mans land to cross to reach their Customs post.

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Raising the stakes

September 28th, 2011

Camping at Deadman’s Lake had really been about raising the stakes. Mike and I had both stopped at organised sites, close to or in settlements, but had yet to wild camp in bear country. Deadman’s was the half-way house, the next step. Far more remote than those either of us had used before. A State run site, facilities were limited to a few composting toilets, a shelter, nothing more save for a warden living in a caravan. We never saw him, but the place was free.

There were a few others around. A Swiss couple in their RV – recreational vehicle. Imagined them to be pretty wealthy as it had Swiss plates. And friendly they were. The lady spoke good English, and her partner seemed appreciatively of my smiles and enthusiastic, if poor, efforts at schoolboy French. Very jovial I thought.

Next morning we were pleased. No bear encounters, and our food stash untouched. Agreeing we were now ready for the next step. Wild camping. In the Canada’s Yukon Province.

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Deadman’s Lake

September 28th, 2011

DeadmansLakecamp (5)

Sunset over Deadman’s Lake. South of Tok, eastern Alaska.

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