Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Giving

July 4th, 2011

Liam

Today’s Kiwese word or phrase: "ruck otter". Type of cheese

Friendly bunch in Nelson. Actually, that pretty much seems to go for much of South Island. I’d met Liam at a pedestrian crossing. Waiting for the lights. I’d not sought to engage in conversation. It’d just happened.

He’d spent time in London. Golders Green. Working now in the social sector. Philosophical chat. The importance of giving something to others. I’d agreed. Wholeheartedly. Gave him his freedom to escape after twenty minutes or so.

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Lunchtime story

July 3rd, 2011

Today’s Kiwese word or phrase: "a nelly sus". Logical scrutiny

It had to be up there with the one about mobile phones. Causing explosions in petrol stations. Invariably prohibited. But has anyone ever seen it happen? Ever. I doubt it. The bus driver had explained that eating onboard wasn’t allowed. Quite apart from the mess, there’d been an incident. He wasn’t sure exactly when. Someone had opened a bag of peanuts. Aroma spread by the air conditioning. Driver collapsing at the wheel. Nut allergy. Our man was certain of this. Picton bus station. Ten minutes to departure. Ate my lunch on the pavement.

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Heading south to Franz Josef

July 3rd, 2011

Glacierpan

Today’s Kiwese word: puck chez. What you take with a camera

I’d been in New Zealand for at least ten minutes before I’d decided I’d need to come back. So it’d made sense to focus on doing one thing well. Rather than attempting to cram lots in. And see little. So I’d decided to head for the Franz Josef Glacier on the western side of South Island. Spend a few days there. Exploring. Weather permitting. But the forecast was good. Cold but dry for the most part.

I’d chosen the Glacier for no other reason that a couple of billion cubic metres of solid ice sounded like a bit of preparation of Alaska. And, after all, I’d never been to NZ before. So, whatever I did, it’d be a new experience. Couldn’t loose.

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Winter light

July 3rd, 2011

Tree (2)

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One Ring to bind them

July 3rd, 2011

Ringmaker

Still no sign of the Hobbits…

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Maori

July 2nd, 2011

It helps hugely if I don’t think you’re just out of the Stone Age. Which is where I pretty much place Australia’s indigenous peoples prior to European colonisation. Some are still there. Provide evidence of Iron Age tools and I’ll happily re-consider.

In New Zealand a very different situation. Maori people relatively recent inhabitants. Hundreds of years rather than thousands. Relatively sophisticated culture. Coherent society. Reflected in the Treaty of Waitangi between their leaders and the British Crown. No historical curiosity. Its obligations still being interpreted by the Courts today.

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Holidaying in Azerbaijan

July 2nd, 2011

Unintentional I’m sure. Maybe. But, unless you’re very canny, holidaying in Azerbaijan is now a criminal offence. For Brits at least. Courtesy of the Bribery Act 2010. Coming into force a few days ago. True. No one will ever force you to pay a bribe. Depends whether or not you ever want to leave.

Bit of a delve into the Act suggests having "adequate procedures" to prevent bribery is a defence. Wondering if "Don’t get caught" counts? In truth, the trick for individual travellers is to stick doggedly to making small gifts. In recognition of services rendered. That sort of thing. Take them out to dinner. Buy them a coffee. Hospitality falling outside the Act.

Admittedly Azerbaijan is a bit of special case. Endemic corruption. But you don’t have to wander far from the First World and France to encounter dodgy practices. National sport in Greece. And, the Ministry of Justice advises, small sums shouldn’t result in prosecution. But that’s discretionary. Happy travels.

[And before you do wander off and follow any of the suggestions above, read this website’s Terms & Conditions of Use]

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At fault

July 2nd, 2011

quake

Today’s Kiwese word: ruck secks. Two or more bags usually carried in the Great Outdoors

One doesn’t want to sound alarmist. But New Zealand does sit on along a major fault line. Specifically, the western coast of South Island. Sort out accounts for the mountains there. And it’s where I’m off to next. Bit of exploration. Probably best not to mention my rather dubious track record. Side-stepping natural disasters and civil unrest by a month or two. Sometimes a lot less. In any case, just enough.

I’d been a bit presumptive. Recent devastation of Christchurch by an earthquake a few months ago. Volcanic activity on North Island. Lofty mountain peaks. Sharply defined. A nation thrust up from beneath. But no. Splinter of an ancient landmass. Eventually dividing up into South America, India, Australia and Antarctica.

I’d have been blissfully ignorant but for hosts Ian, Amy and their three children taking me to Te Papa Our Place – New Zealand’s national museum of errr New Zealand. Maori culture. Social history. Fashions. Household artifacts. And Geology. Plate tectonics. Even an earthquake simulator. Supposedly a seven or so on the Richter Scale. Amy disagreed. More like a four. Experience for you.

And the photograph? One of Te Papa’s supports. Designed to reduce the impact of an earthquake on the building. Slowing down the more violent short, sharp shocks.

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Meeting Maria

July 2nd, 2011

Maria

Today’s Kiwese word: sin to meet her. Hundred of these and you’ve got a metre

Maria wore a Hijab. A headscarf. The Koran requiring Muslim women to cover their heads when praying. But what, I enquired, of those who also covered their faces? That, she explained, was merely local custom. The wearing of a Burdah no requirement of her faith. Commonplace in strict societies such as Saudi Arabia it might be, but pilgrims to Mecca were permitted only the Hijab.

It’d been an early start. Up at five. First ferry of the day between New Zealand’s North and South Islands. Sailing from Wellington to Picton. Swift to secure a window seat. Striking up a conversation with Maria on the next table when I’d asked if she’d mind keeping an eye on my belongings whilst I went to find a coffee.

Her eldest child was twelve. I guessed she might be mid-thirties. An uncertain estimate. What was the average age for marriage in her home country Indonesia? I’d no idea. Besides, she was an educated businesswoman, independently minded. Adherence to norms probably not her thing.

I’d explained that whilst I might ask her husband his age, it would be quite improper for me to enquire as to hers. She was, of course, free to tell me. But if she did, I’d be obliged to treat it as confidential. As I would her husband’s. Moral requirement rather than religious obligation.

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Lessons in empathy

July 1st, 2011

P1050259

Today’s Kiwese word: pedals. Handy for kayaking

I’d stared at the postcard for a while. Pondering. Knew what I wanted to say. But not quite sure how to preface it. Formal address or first name. Curious dilemma perhaps. For I was writing to my old Physics teacher. Part of me still wanting to refer to him as "Mr…". Not just because that had been the school norm. Out of plain, old-fashioned respect as well. For he’d been the best teacher I’d ever had.

He’d strike a clever balance between demanding commitment, and engendering empathy with his students. You felt he wasn’t so much teaching you, as studying alongside. Careful to explain how he’d approached problems. Always receptive to alternatives, as one would be from an equal.

Memories that had come flooding back almost a quarter of a century later. Still crisp and clear. Thanks to some new fangled technology. Skype. A surprise chance to chat online. For I was staying with his son, a school contemporary. Now out in New Zealand. Joining in on the weekly family catch-up.

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