Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Lighthouse blues

November 27th, 2011

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Loeva and Flo – short for Florian – were surfers. And French. Her native accent not easily discernable, the result of studying in Bangor, North Wales, and work experience in Fort Worth, Texas. Curious combination I thought. How, I asked, did one fair surfing in Texas? Tropical storms she replied. We were sharing the same hostel.

My exit earlier in the day from San Francisco had been far less tedious than I’d expected. Straightforward navigation. Retracing my steps back to the Golden Gate Bridge. Then a decent street map to lead me south. Heading a little less than thirty miles or so to stop at Point Montara hostel. With a lighthouse. Very Enid Blyton.

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I’d relished the chance to return to stopping in smaller hostels and wasn’t disappointed. Friendly, convival atmosphere. Vicky at Reception had come for a year. About five years ago.

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The Old Curiosity Shop

November 26th, 2011

I’m not Australian and don’t like to be called as such. Which happens fairly frequently in North America. Finding myself particularly riled by this, forcing myself to ponder why this might be. Of course, I know a good number of great people, destined to be life-long friends, who happen to be Australian. My issue firmly cultural rather than individual.

True, I admire their stoicism in the face of frequent adversity. Their self-reliance. Itself a little ironic for what appears to be the ultimate Nanny State. Runaway regulation. Officious bureaucracy. Federal system unwarranted for a population less than a third of that of the UK. Governed by a mediocrity of politicians. Always grains amongst the chaff. Anna Bligh, Queensland’s Premier. Met her briefly. But not Prime Ministerial material. Not that you need to be.

Some aspects simply amuse rather than annoy. Bowling greens and old fashioned social clubs, serving meals reminiscent of school dinners. Rather quaint. Like an Old Curiosity Shop. Finally embracing EFTPOS like it was a sparkly new children’s toy. Words like free or inclusive have largely been discarded from their lexicon, replaced by the likes of gourmet – pronounced ’gore-met’ – its application bordering on the abusive. It’ll be fondue sets next. Their de facto national dish as unoriginal as it is uninspiring in a continent of unique flora and fauna. Fish and chips. Almost criminal. But that’s history for you. Made worse by the fact that a rather better model for European colonisation lies right under their noses. New Zealand.

I’d been asked by one fellow traveller why I thought all this might be? What about atmospheric nuclear testing? I paused, albeit briefly, then replied, smiling, that my diary was clear next week. In the meantime, I’ll just have to settle for a friend’s suggestion. When asked by a US citizen if you’re Australian, reply by asking which part of Canada they come from…

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City of contrasts

November 26th, 2011

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If at first you don’t succeed

November 26th, 2011

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Works every time… Incidentally, however laudable it may be, Ken most certainly isn’t biking for world peace… But you probably guessed that by now… And whilst he has no plans to enter the arms trade when he gets home, if he did it’d be an ethical affair – or at least a frightfully honest one – company motto "We pedal death"

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Hill Street Blues

November 26th, 2011

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Streets of San Francisco

November 26th, 2011

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One that almost got away

November 26th, 2011

I’d heard endless plaudits about the hostel at San Francisco’s Fisherman Wharf. But I was less than impressed. Initially at least. Single room for a couple of nights whilst I sorted out all my kit. Then decanting to a cheaper dorm bed. A far brighter, more pleasant place than the rather dingy affair I’d started with. And it wasn’t directly beneath the hostel’s cafe. Joked that in Alcatraz at least the cells were en-suite.

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Single rooms aside, I found myself slowly warming to the place. The staff were pleasant enough, patient and helpful. But it was the atmosphere that led me to put aside first impressions. Airy common room, music playing gently in the background, fellow hostellers as varied in their accents as their ages.

I’d also grown to love the hostel’s little eatery. Cafe Franco. Bohemian. Plenty of refreshingly health options and remarkably sensible prices. Sufficiently fond of the place to forgive them for their invariable lateness in opening up for the complementary breakfast. You could set your watch by it.

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Captive audience

November 26th, 2011

I’d couldn’t bear to watch. Truly I couldn’t. She had laryngitis, compounded, she said, by an earlier altercation with a protester at a demonstration in the city. Now a captive audience, able only to nod. Trying my best to sustain a modicum of dialogue with yes and no questions.

What flavour did she prefer, I asked. She scribbled her answer on a plain napkin. Entrusting her with my netbook, I left the hostel’s Cafe Franco for the nearby supermarket. Returning a short time later with a decent sized tub of ice cream.

She’d come to San Francisco for a fresh start. Searching for a job, and somewhere to live. Permitted only to spend a couple of weeks a year in each hostel before being obliged to move on. Motels or hotels far too expensive.

I’d met her by chance in the breakfast queue, suspecting her of trying to jump in and teasing her accordingly. A little sarcastic. Surprised then when she’d asked to join me at my table. Not the greatest of starts.

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Cup cake

November 26th, 2011

I was certain he’d called me cup cake. And in San Francisco that made me especially nervous. I’d a list. San Andreas Fault. Invasion of the Bodysnatchers. Alcatraz. Trams. A Sixties song I could never remember the name of. Something to do with flowers in your hair. And a scribbled, cryptic note about tolerant society. Just in case anyone glanced at it over my shoulder. Not wishing to offend, however unintentional.

But I was mistaken. He was merely offering me something to accompany my coffee. I smiled, paused briefly and then politely declined. Felt I should somehow have responded with a witty quip. Just as I’d done at one campground. Mentioning I was contemplating lighting a fire, he’d asked if I had wood. No, I’d quickly replied, it was just the padding. You had to be there.

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Privileges

November 25th, 2011

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Soon to be adopted as one of Ken’s house rules…

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