Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Washed out in Whistler

October 21st, 2011

It should have been simple enough. Ride ahead of fellow cyclist Paul, for my trusty steed and I were somewhat quicker than he and his four-wheeled bikecar, Priscilla. Head for Whistler’s main plaza, locate Marie-Eve and explain that Paul was on his way to meet her, but delayed by some unexpected hills. Should have been. But it wasn’t.

I’d made good time into Whistler, despite the increasingly heavy rain. Only to discover that Whistler doesn’t exactly have a main plaza, rather an extensive pedestrianised area. Those willing to brave the unrelenting icy downpour were well-wrapped, mostly decent waterproofs or plastic ponchos. Little chance of ever spotting Marie-Eve from the description I’d been given.

Refusing to accept the situation for what it was – hopeless bordering on futile – I’d wandered about with my fully laden bike, hoping this might draw Marie-Eve out. But I’d two wheels and she was expecting four. I continued for a few hours, reluctant to give up, occasionally seeking respite under the odd gazebo. Getting ever colder.

Unable to find Marie-Eve, or to locate Paul, whom I was guessing must by now have reached Whistler, it was time to call it a day. For it would be soon be dark, and I’d a further five miles to reach my out-of-town hostel. Disappointing. Hoping Paul at least had more success.

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Paul and Priscilla

October 21st, 2011

Paul and Priscilla from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken encounters fellow British cyclist Paul on the road to Whistler, together with his rather unusual four-wheeled steed Priscilla – a "bikecar"! Check out his website at www.going-solo.co.ukobpostlogo

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Pengwen on patrol

October 20th, 2011

Her school friends had called her Pen-Gwen, for her name was Gwen and she’d always a pen on her. But I could call her Pen if I wanted. She explained she did "security" for the First Nations reservation I’d ended up stopping for the night in. Checking out strangers she explained. She’d asked me my name, to which I’d replied "You can call me John". A choice in deference to a reporter who’d kept mistakenly calling me that a few days earlier. Was that my real name, she’d enquired? I chose not to reply.

My trusty steed finally concealed for the night after a long, hard day’s ride through the mountains from Lillooet, I’d wandered to a nearby gas station for a few provisions. I’d noticed Pen on the way in, and she’d intercepted me on her hand-pedaled tricycle as I’d left. She was pleasant enough, but, for all her well-intentioned community spiritedness, she wasn’t a police officer and I wasn’t obliged to share even a jot of information with her.

She sensed my reluctance, asking if I felt intimidated. No, I replied, for it I felt threatened, I’d bear spray and the compunction to use it. I laughed. She explained that using it on another person would simply divert a bear on to them. I pondered this for a moment, then replied that I’d little difficulty with that.

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Pemberton postscript

October 20th, 2011

Removal of the roadside safety barrier, replacing it temporarily with large reflective cones, at least allowed me to see where the highway went. For it was now quite dark, the last vestiges of sunlight faded behind the mountains. My headlight offering little illumination. It was now icy cold, my hands numb. I ignored this, keen to press on to find shelter for the night.

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I’d planned to camp up in the mountains, completing the sixty mile traverse along the Sea-to-Sky Highway from Lillooet to Pemberton early the next morning. But, as dusk approached, I’d struggled to find a suitable spot to pull off the road and pitch my tent. Deciding instead, on the spur of the moment, to use the remaining light to plunge down into the valley below.

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Steep 15% gradients, sharp switch-backs. Penetrating wind-chill, the occasional pocket of warm air offering brief relief. Little traffic, and a decent, dry road. Insane? No. More a fitting end to a tough day, a ten mile descent counterbalancing tortuous climbs at the start.

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Off the grid

October 20th, 2011

"Get off the grid man" he said abruptly. He was Canadian, his youthful partner had Finnish blood. Did she speak the language, I’d asked? "Kindergarten". I’d seen them a couple of times over the previous few days, smart matching Surly touring bikes strapped to the roof of their small car.

They’d been travelling for some years. Inter-railing in Europe. South America. Now British Columbia, searching for somewhere to settle. On the edge of society, or at least away from mobile phones. For barefooted as they might be, their hippy attire appeared as it might fresh on a film set. Tailored replicas. Chic.

I thought their disenchantment was more with the rat-race than society per se, and had suggested as much, seeking to convey my sympathies. Drawing the assertion that I should also move to the margins. I’d smiled. Always curious as to how far those advocating dis-enfranchisement are prepared to go. How self-sufficient they are willing – and able – to be? Growing your own vegetables, solar heating and compost heaps are one thing. But, for example, declining modern healthcare in time of need? Food for thought.

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Sea-to-Sky Highway – through the mountains

October 20th, 2011

Sea-to-Sky Highway – through the mountains from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken journeys through the mountains, along the Sea-to-Sky Highway, towards the 2010 Winter Olympics resort of Whistler. Tough day…

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Sea-to-Sky Highway – along the Marble Canyon

October 20th, 2011

Sea-to-Sky Highway – along the Marble Canyon from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken journeys along the first part of the Sea-to-Sky Highway – Route 99 – towards the 2010 Winter Olympics resort of Whistler

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Sea-to-Sky Highway

October 19th, 2011

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Beyond Clinton, a simple choice. Continue along the Cariboo Highway towards Vancouver. Or follow Route 99 – the Sea-to-Sky Highway. The scenic route. Rated by one UK national paper as the 5th best road trip in the world. Knew it would be tough. Hoped it would be rewarding. Through the mountains and then south to the coast. An irresistible choice.

Stopping for a brief coffee at the historic Hat Creek Ranch, close to the intersection of the Cariboo and Sea-to-Sky Highways, server Pamela summed up the road ahead. Towards Lillooet, my intended stop for the night, hilly. Then on to Pemberton, mountain-ey. I thought her Indian. Gravelly voice. Sure she’d the deep, raucous laugh I’d begun to notice amongst indigenous women.

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South from Clinton

October 19th, 2011

South from Clinton from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken enjoys a largely downhill stretch from Clinton towards the start of the Sea-to-Sky Highway..

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Aspiring skyward

October 19th, 2011

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In Clinton, British Columbia

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