Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Thin veneer

October 16th, 2011

No, she explained, they’d no rooms. Lost their license. I nodded, shrugged my shoulders, and left. Fifteen precious minutes of daylight wasted. Outside, across the car park, lights on in a few of the cabins. Frustrating. I’d queued patiently, trapped between two bickering women. Stuff of soap operas. One accusing the other of raking up an old affair with her brother five years earlier.

I’d reached Burns Lake close to sunset. On the face of it respectable enough. Smart elementary school, similarly the by now closed information centre. But a brief ride around and it was soon clear there were issues. Drugs. Foetal alcohol syndrome. Quick foray into the Municipal campground. Skateboard park close by. Too many people taking too much interest in me. And too late to head out of town.

I’d remembered a small motel on the way in. Sign proclaimed it was First Nations owned. And the Rainbow symbol suggested inclusiveness. And cheap. Decided to see if I could get a room for the night. Secure. Away from prying eyes. But no. I’d half a suspicion they’d lost their room license through plain apathy. Making enough with a brisk trade in cigarettes and alcohol.

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Topley tales

October 16th, 2011

Above the door a toy rifle with a sign beneath it. "We don’t dial 9.1.1". Small cafe with a pig theme. Porcelain, plastic, most terribly tacky ornaments, others with a modicum of taste. A young child struggled towards the exit, pausing occasionally to rest and catch her breath. Doubted if she was little more than ten years old. Very sad.

Continuing my journey east towards Prince George, I’d made a late afternoon stop in Topley. Small motel, pleasant enough with cosy looking white-painted wooden cabins. Quaint. And a grill – the cafe I’d stopped in – and grocery store.

Outside I’d met Sue. She’d done some cycling, but, as she explained, with just the one road options were limited. Was I ready for Six Mile Hill? I answered with a blank expression. Glad I’d had a dollop of ice cream with my pie.

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Heart attack on a plate

October 16th, 2011

It was un-mistakenly what Esther, with whom I’d stayed back in the Central Asian city of Bishkek, would have described as a heart attack on a plate. Bacon and fried egg sandwich. With fries. I’d loved her description of North American road house fare as much, I thought, as she’d enjoyed some of my pet phrases and little quips.

Everything in moderation of course, and after Hungry Hill, lentils and lettuce wouldn’t have worked. There’d been a swift, flowing descent into Houston, a small cafe next to a busy gas station. A sign on the door said "Happy Birthday Elaine!". It begged me to enter. Staff or regular customer. Which would it be?

My server was Aubray. She’d worked there since the local sawmill had closed. Elaine was in the kitchen, soon to finish her shift and head off to celebrate her twenty-first.

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Hungry Hill

October 16th, 2011

He continued his rummaging in the bins, pausing occasionally to pull out the odd plastic bottle. Tossing it into the back of a smart pick-up. His wife looked on. I sat a short distance away, sipping tepid coffee from my small flask. She looked embarrassed.

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I’d pulled into a small rest area close to the summit of Hungry Hill. Close on three thousand feet. Not especially steep, but drawn out over quite a few miles. Signs at the bottom explaining how to fit snow chains, not that they were needed today. Another sunny autumnal day.

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The rummagers moved off to other bins on the other side of the highway. I wandered over to the nearby "Hungry Hill Grizzlies" sign. Tales of a dangerous Grizzly christened The Phantom. Which seemed apt, since, as ever, there was a single bear to be seen. Not that I was in a hurry to stow my deterrent spray.

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Highway of Tears

October 16th, 2011

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Route 16. From Prince Rupert east across Canada. Also known as the Highway of Tears. No hitch-hiking say the signs. And probably for good reason. For, over the years, quite a few people have disappeared, last seen thought trying to thumb a lift. In one shop window I’d found a fading poster, a montage of the missing. Lost souls dating back almost a quarter of a century.

A young woman had recently disappeared south of the highway. Tragic coincidence or part of a pattern? Hard – almost impossible – to say. Perhaps the only connection was the road – ostensibly a single route east, settlements strung along its length – such that over the years the missing appeared to be linked, even if this wasn’t actually the case. The alternative – that they were – quite unpalatable.

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Off to Burns Lake

October 16th, 2011

Off to Burns Lake from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken prepares to head off towards Burns Lake, in British Columbia

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Arousals

October 16th, 2011

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In the finest traditions of the now defunct "News of the World", only my curiosity had been aroused. Spotting the sign beside the highway south of Smithers, British Columbia, it was time to investigate….

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Adults only

October 16th, 2011

Adults Only from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken chances on a sign for an Adults Only park. Cyclists welcome. Unable to resist, he goes off to investigate… and spend the night there..

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Contemplations in Smithers

October 15th, 2011

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Cristina had lived in Indonesia for a few years. Travelled to China in the early 90s. Back-packed to Bergen. Had lived in Prince Rupert and Hazelton, places I’d recently passed through. But was now in Smithers, enjoying a coffee respite from scrubbing out a mobile home she’d bought. Explained I’d some sympathy, my own cottage having taken weeks to remove the final traces of a previous owner’s deep fat fryer.

She’d been sat on a nearby table, enjoying the pleasant autumn sun. Asked if she could join me, even if it might have been I who’d invited her. Her request not unexpected. I’d been pondering my own plans, my pedal now fixed but conscious time had drifted by. Wondering where I might stop tonight.

I liked Smithers. Alongside the highway it was mostly nondescript, the usual fast food outlets and gas stations. But the town itself had character. And Germanic undertones. Schimmel’s cafe. The air-raid siren. A very helpful information centre. And a really great bike shop.

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Sorted in Smithers

October 15th, 2011

Sorted in Smithers from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Following a tip-off, Ken finds Dave’s bike shop – www.cobbikeshop.ca – in Smithers to try and get his annoying pedal sorted..

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