Across Continents

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Cruel to be kind

November 28th, 2010

Scribbled in the margins of my notebook. Undulating. A glib assessment. But fortuitous. Chances are you’d be faster than Emma, my trusty steed, and I. Over short distances. But over sixty or so miles, few thousand feet of climb, plunging descents? We’ve remarkably low gears for the uphill pulls, and a lot of weight to aid the downhills. But most of all, technique, the psychology of endurance. And quite a bit of practice. Unrelenting riding. For about eight hours at a time.

I’d been joined by a young chap mid-afternoon the previous day. Not sought his company, but, equally, was powerless to prevent him from accompanying me. Pleasant enough, but I knew more Mandarin than he did English. At first I thought he might follow me for a few miles. But he persisted. Into the town of Shangnan. Attempts to shake him off were fruitless.

I didn’t feel in the least bit threatened by his presence. But I was very uneasy about the situation. For one thing, I was uncertain of his age. Late teens perhaps. But who was he? Probably lived with his parents. Did they know where he was? I’d not seen a mobile phone. I feared he might have simply decided to embark on a bit of an adventure, accompanying me east. But I neither wanted a companion, nor did I wish to be party to someone’s impulsive, impetuous behaviour. No matter how well intentioned.

So I kept my distance as best I could. Strictly a fellow cyclist who happened to be going the same way. Which, despite my very best efforts, included the hotel I’d chosen for the night. Deftly selected because I thought it unaffordable for him, albeit well within my own budget. It worked. He disappeared. First assuring me, as far as I could ascertain, that next morning he’d be heading back from where we’d come.

Departure the following day. He was waiting. Followed me back to the main route along the valley. We parted company, heading off in opposite directions. Or so I thought. Twenty minutes later and he’d caught up with me again. I was beginning to feel very uncomfortable. Knew he had a reasonable amount of money on him, ample to stay in the hotel I’d used the previous night. Be he hadn’t. Which made me think that perhaps this wasn’t a regular income, more his savings. Eeking them out. Very troubling.

Friendly he might have been. But I began to wonder about loco parentis. Just exactly who was he, and how old? I’d been unable to find anyone who could translate my concerns, and my phrase book wasn’t any help. Began to toy with finding a Police officer to help resolve the situation. But deterred by the language barrier. And I’d already quite a distance to cover before dark. Delay would be unwelcome.

A difficult situation. But not of my making. I couldn’t stop him riding with me, but if he couldn’t keep up? That was another matter. Force him to go home. Wherever that was. Best for both of us I suspected. So that’s what I did. Suddenly opening up the pace, sustaining it for perhaps twenty miles. Seeking to get an edge over him. Flat, fast riding. He kept up for quite a while, then indicated he was beginning to struggle. I stuck with it, opening up the gap. Unceasing, relentless riding. And then he was gone. Cruel to be kind.

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Moral compass

November 28th, 2010

The moral high ground has deceptively lofty peaks. Treacherous to the unwise. Those with moments of madness. Even if wielding the simple sword of truth and the trusty shield of British fair play. As one former Conservative MP can no doubt attest to. But a moral compass. No matter where you stand, it helps you follow the right path.

Which is handy when, in all probability, you’ve inadvertently spent the night in a brothel. Alone. Well, apart from Emma. My trusty steed. Or talked late into the night with a fellow foreigner who’d an encyclopedic knowledge of prostitution in China. And not the slightest hesitate to share it. Keeping your bearings. A passive observer, wishing to record, to share. Offering insight into less obvious aspects of society.

And then there’s corruption. Back in Azerbaijan. Ethically more troubling. Because, if you want to get things done, you have to participate. The compass waivers a little. Steadied only by the recognition that bribery and back-handers are endemic. Part of the very fabric of society. Theirs. Just how it is.

So, did I pay the odd bribe back there? Of course I did. Of necessity to get things done. Might have referred to them as "fees", "donations to the coffee fund", a "warm handshake". But unmistakably illicit payments to unduly influence the conduct of others. Bit of local magnetic variation. Just like the Black Cullins on the Isle of Skye. Sort of.

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Facebook friends

November 28th, 2010

Facebook

And now for…. a message for friends following on Facebook. Alas, the website is blocked in mainland China so, as you might imagine, access can be a bit tricky!

In practice this means that, courtesy of an overseas third party, I can respond to "Friends Requests" – bit sporadic I admit – but replying to your messages will have to wait until I reach Hong Kong. And the blog posts? That’s an automated feed direct from my website.

Please be patient – am really looking forward to reconnecting with everyone fairly soon!

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Constructive criticism

November 27th, 2010

“Criticism may not be agreeable, but it is necessary. It fulfils the same function as pain in the human body. It calls attention to an unhealthy state of things” Winston Churchill

Constructive criticism helps the world move forward. Tolerance of it one of the fundamental tenets of democracy. Explains why North Korea remains stuck in the dark ages. And where Azerbaijan will be going once the oil runs out.

“Tell me what I need to know, not what I want to hear” Best Kroner, Norwegian philosopher

Put another way, there’s always room for improvement. Scope to make things better. And so it goes with the blog. I’d asked a few close friends to offer some candid thoughts. Be frank I said. I’m pretty thicked-skinned. Difficult to offend. And in China. Besides, in posing the question, I must surely think the content could in some way be improved. Tell me what I need to know. Not what you think I want to hear.

And the results? A mixed bag, part content, part style. More photos and video clips. Especially of people. And the scenery. Help better explain the geography. Factual pieces. More humour. Quotations. Short sentences. The odd word. Gritiness. Easier to scan. I’ll try my best.

[Please feel free to comment on individual posts. Likes or dislikes. So long as what you write does not contravene English law, isn’t offensive to others or unsuitable for minors, your submissions will be warmly welcomed. Freedom of expression begins at home]

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Mountains of Madness

November 27th, 2010

I’d waved frantically, pointing. Hoping he’d realise what I was desperately trying to indicate. In just seconds. An escape lane. Just around the corner. A remarkable piece of driving, struggling with the last vestiges of control. The wheels on one side momentarily leaving the tarmac as he’d rounded the bend. Somehow managing to sound the horn. Continuously. Warning others.

Escape - web

He made it. Had the presence of mind to cut his engine as he ploughed into the deep gravel. Emerged dazed, shaken, but otherwise fine. His load, now strewn around the lorry? Shale. Very stuff that had saved him.

Mountains - web

By the time I reached Shangzhou that evening I needed a coffee. Another prosperous provincial town. A familiar Western fast food outlet. Felt certain the Colonel wouldn’t disappoint. Picture menu to help. Came in a small tub. Espresso I thought. No. Mashed potato. I hoped the lorry driver I’d met earlier in the day was faring better. He definitely needed a drink. A stronger tipple than mine.

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Civic pride

November 27th, 2010

Dark. The town square uncharacteristically poorly lit. But through the small crowd I could just make out the group. Line dancing perhaps. But a bit more fluid. Animated. Brightly coloured bundles of material in their hands, largely reduced to shades of grey in the gloom. Music from speakers dotted around on lamp posts.

Lights - web

I’d reached Shangnan, another provincial town. Relatively small by Chinese standards, it lacked the vibrancy of Shangzhou the previous night. But it at least felt different. For one thing, less of the familiar grid layout I’d become accustomed to. Forced instead to mould itself between the steep sides of the valley in which it found itself, a little off the main east-west highway. I’d imagined homes perched high up on the hillsides, hundred of lights visible the night before. But, next morning, nothing.

Pool - web

Shangzhou had familiarity. Appeared a little more prosperous. Yet still yielded surprises. Pool tables laid out in neat lines between bare bulbs in the town square. Played by young and old, late into the evening. And, like the previous night, I found myself attracting a modicum of attention. Less of than in Lantian, my first, and smaller stop, after Xi’an, but noticeable nevertheless. Mostly teenage girls, giggling and pointing. The novelty of which quickly tires. Especially when you’ve lived at a Girls School.

[Author’s note: The last sentence? Late Eighties. Hitchin, Hertfordshire. Never found anyone who’s ever accepted my assertions that the novelty, for a then teenager, quickly wears off….]

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Road 101

November 26th, 2010

I’d sat in the window to watch the world go by. Instead it watched me. Lantian. Provincial town to the east of the city of Xi’an. Westerners something of a rarity. Possibly because it’s quite difficult to find. Even when I’d reached it, I had my doubts. Eventually quelled by some forensic navigation. That’s where you use a blend of GPS data, Google Earth and a conventional map or two to work out exactly where here is, and where you’ve been. Not always obvious.

A deliberately short day. In distance terms. Little more than thirty miles. But it’d taken quite a bit of time, mostly escaping from Xi’an. Should have been pretty straightforward. I’d sketched out a route using a mix of satellite imagery and a local map. But overlooked the road works, the diversions. The city’s largely grid layout should have helped compensate, but still left me a bit bewildered amongst the heavy traffic.

A familiar pattern. Set off. Confident. Done my homework. A few landmarks to look for. Stick to what you imagine can only be clearly defined main routes. After a while doubt starts to creep in. Sure it looked different on Google Earth. It probably did. Such is the rate of road building. Eventually, any decent bit of tarmac heading east suffices.

Hoping for a road sign, there’d been more confusion. Finding one for Lintong, written in both English and Simplified Chinese, my spirits raised. I’d expected to see Lantian, and the characters were slightly different to those shown on my less than reliable map. A different place or a transliteration error? I wasn’t sure.

I’d asked quite a few pedestrians, bystanders. Which was the right road? Then an elderly couple on smart bicycles. They’d hailed me from across the carriageway. Rode with me for a short while, parting company once a sign for Lantian appeared. Could barely conceal my delight. But not the G312 highway I’d expected, I’d followed from Kazakhstan. No. Road 101.

I’d find out later it was the right way to go. But not without incident. Quite a bit of chaotic roadworks. Then there’d been a road accident. Cyclist. I’d have stopped to help but for what’s termed mechanism of injury. A lorry. And plenty of people milling around. Not that they could do anything. Of that I was absolutely certain.

I’d found somewhere to stay in Lantian without too much difficulty. Headed out at dusk. Prosperous. Lots of shops selling things you didn’t actually need. A few pavement market stalls. Some, curiously, openly selling bundles of what purported to be various popular currencies.

Eventually drawn into a Western style fast food outlet by the possibility of a fresh coffee. Met with "Good morning" and a smile, the usual greeting in such establishments. "Tom and Jerry" on the large screen. Dubbed. In the background "Scarborough Fair" played on a loop. Faces at the window.

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On the Road to Danfeng

November 26th, 2010

There’d been a brief foray a few years ago into the hallowed halls of academia. Evensong and a college dinner. Oxford. Spent the night in Elizabeth Taylor’s bed. Admittedly about thirty years after she’d stayed there with Richard Burton. But I felt certain we’d both admired the same decor. Not sure if the college had a Chair in Linguistics, but if it did, I doubt my recent discovery would warrant a nomination.

Largely conceptual. How do English speaking Chinese switch between their largely pictorial symbology and the rather more phonetic Roman alphabet? Pondered it for a while. Then a revelation. Whilst stopped to read my own map. They’re different representations of the same thing. Both symbolic.

Simplified Chinese characters are ostensibly pictograms, each constructed of a series of pen strokes. One Chinese character equating to one English word. In English, or any language using the Roman alphabet, individual letters replace discrete strokes. Simple really.

And just as the Chinese see a word when looking at a character, English speakers do exactly the same with a series of letters. With sufficient vocabulary, and practice, individual letters are not sounded. Rather, it is just a shape, immediately and subconsciously recognisable as a word. Just like a pictogram.

An example. Look at the image below. "Popland". Instantly recognisable because it consists of two familiar word shapes – "pop" and "land".

Popland - web

But, faced with, in all probability, a less familiar word – or shape – like valetudinanan, good chance you’re a bit slower pronouncing it. Scrutinising individual letters, or small groups of them, to work out how to say it. Not exactly Road to Damascus I admit. It was Danfeng.

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Generations

November 26th, 2010

newsletter

Kristina had done a great job. Put together a really good piece about my exploits for The Outward Bound Trust’s Generations newsletter. Inspiring stories about former students. And I’d managed to snuck in. You can download a copy here. Or visit their website www.outwardboundgenerations.org.uk. And if you were at The Trust’s Eskdale centre in August 1985 with me – Mallory Patrol – I’d love to hear from you!

[Newsletter reproduced with kind permission of The Outward Bound Trust]

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Stars and Stripes

November 25th, 2010

Some nations seem much more pre-disposed to travel overseas than others. The Germans for example. Or Australians. Sometimes wonder who’s left at home. Especially with the panto season looming. But the Americans? Or, to be more precise so as not to offend French Canadians, US citizens. You’d be surprised. Or at least, I was. Especially given their popularity, or lack of it, in some parts of the world.

If your perception of an American abroad is a retired couple in golfing attire, you’d also be quite wrong. Dare say you do encounter them. Just as you could probably find an Englishman eating fish and chips sat in a deck chair on a windswept beach. Try Blackpool. But not the norm.

In fact, the Americans I’ve met, sometimes stayed with on the road, have been very friendly, hospitable folk. But more than that. Really very interesting people, with character, depth. A pleasure to sit and chat with. Austin in Tbilisi. Recently ventured into Northern Iraq. Esther back in Bishkek. Upped sticks one day from Florida to Kyrgyzstan in spring. That’s a drop of about forty degrees.

More recently, Jesse I’d met in Xi’an. He’d decided to leave work and study Chinese in Taiwan. To add to the French and Spanish he seemed to have a pretty fluent grasp of. More languages than I know words of Mandarin.

Travel, especially off the usual tourist trails, does act as something of a filter. Deterring those who prefer Western familiarity. Encouraging the more adventurous. So perhaps I shouldn’t be surprised by some the characters I’ve met. But intriguing nevertheless. Still, bet you’ll find more Brits or Germans than Americans in Iran. For now.

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