Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Around Anchorage

September 1st, 2011

Providence Hospital, Anchorage. Small coffee shop, caught just before it closed. In need of caffeine. I’d not slept for more than four or so hours in the last forty eight, the seemingly perpetual daylight thwarting efforts to rest.

Second day in Alaska. First mostly taken up with recovering my trusty steed. I’d ventured into the city, eager to introduce myself to John at the Bent Prop Inn Hostel. He’d offered to help with some PR. I’d inadvertently gone to the wrong site, for there were two hostels, Downtown and Midtown. I’d headed to the latter, but it didn’t matter as he happened to be there.

He recognised me before I he. Soon dropped off at a nearby outdoor equipment shop, then lunch at a downtown bar. Joined by hostel owner and former US Marine Corps helicopter pilot Ben. John had a few things to do, so I headed off with Ben. Driving around the city for a while on a few errands. Hazy memories but quite sure I’d been introduced to a woman who’d survived a machete attack. Finally parting company at the US Geological Survey offices so I might find a decent map of Alaska.

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Other side of the tracks

August 31st, 2011

I’d scrambled up the steep embankment, over the rail tracks. Sliding down the other side, struggling to stay on my feet. Past the fish processors sat on plastic drums, enjoying a short break outside. Barely a glance from them. Stand knee deep in fish guts I suppose and a lost Englishman shuffling past barely warrants a raised eyebrow. But if they’d not really noticed me, I really wasn’t that bothered. I’d DHL’s Anchorage air freight centre in my sights. About to be reunited with my trusty steed.

Conclusion of the on-move from Australia within my grasp. Retrieving Emma the last piece of the jigsaw. A handful of paperwork to present to the shippers. Inside, a small line of people waiting to retrieve their goods. That could wait, for I’d spotted the complimentary coffee. Chance for another caffeine fix as I struggled with lack of sleep. Not that I’d be able to even if I’d tried. Cursed with insomnia.

Host Linda had dropped me a little earlier back at the airport’s North Terminal. Deserted. Much of it being renovated. I’d drifted around for quite a while until I eventually found Customs. I was sure I’d smiled a lot. My recollections a bit hazy. The officer at the counter very methodical. Kept thinking, as best I could, temporary importation. No duty to pay. He made several phone calls. What, I wondered, was the issue? I’d explained I’d been careful to thoroughly clean my bicycle. Definitely no soil on it.

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The difficulty was, as far as I could make out, how he should classify the bicycle. I really didn’t care, provided he’d release the bicycle. A few of his colleagues packed up and left. I began to wonder if I might be obliged to return the next day. No more calls. Instead asking another officer if he’d a particular form. I didn’t catch the details, but it sounded encouraging. Rummaging in a drawer. He then returned to the desk. A few scribbles, boxes to tick, my signature. And then the release stamp I sought to retrieve my steed from the shippers.

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Into the Twilight Zone

August 30th, 2011

Brief stop-over in Hawaii complete, I was bound for Alaska. The Twilight Zone. During the summer months almost perpetual daylight. That’d already begun to diminish by five minutes or so each day, just as the relatively mild weather conditions would start to ebb away shortly. Knew I’d need to press on out of Anchorage just as soon as I was ready. Not a moment to loose.

Shuttle bus back to the airport I’d left the previous day. Agricultural inspection. Free carriage of thirty pounds of approved pineapples was an irresistible offer that proved to be very resistible. Check in with Alaskan Airlines swift, no quibbling over the half pound I was over on the baggage limit.

All terribly polite and efficient. And as yet no utterance of "Have a nice day". Only criticism I’d have, and it is a minor one, is that full body scanners are probably not best suited to airports in warm climates. Gets your attention. So to speak. And the alternative they offer, full body pat down, didn’t strike me as having much less scope for, shall we say, embarrassment. If you’re male and facing a similar dilemma, imagine Sarah Palin riding a moose. Worked for me. Nice horns.

[At the time of writing the author was partially sleep deprived and riding on a sea of caffeine. So probably not as his best. Humble apologies. But do look out for more Sarah Palin jokes. And remember, people must have voted for her]

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Serious stuff…

August 11th, 2011

Perhaps it’s because I’m English. Preferring understated. Mustn’t grumble and all that. And much of the day-to-day stuff, the aches and pains, I probably do just take in my stride. Norms that don’t merit a mention. Or perhaps they should if I’m to properly convey just what life is like on the road.

And whilst I can never be sure exactly what lies ahead, I’ve a pretty shrewd idea it’s going to be tough, both physically and psychologically. That’s Alaska for you. Definitely not a playground. Wild camping in bear country. Vast tracts of wilderness to cover. Canadian Customs. Winter soon beginning to creep in.

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And, yes. I already am in Alaska. Always a bit ahead of the blog. Back on the road. Feeling reflective. A condition in part brought on by the need to remain static for a couple of days whilst I recover from emergency dental treatment. Large abscess not dented by painkillers or antibiotics.

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The tale of this little drama will unfold in due course, not out of a search for sympathy, but for what it says of the Alaskans I’ve met. Remarkable kindness and generosity. Truly so. Taken under the wing of a wonderful lady called Betsy (on the right above). Which actually means ordered to bed to rest. Kicked into life when required. Properly mothered. I loved it. Monte the dentist and his team (below) for fixing me up.

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And back in Anchorage, my starting point in Alaska, new friendships forged rather than simply acquaintances made. People like John (below), Linda and Amelia. And quite a few more.

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So, I’ll continue to document the people and places I encounter on my travels. But perhaps add a little more about the day-to-day challenges. In the meantime, back to my maps and the route down through Canada and on to Seattle on the north-west corner of the US. For I’ve a bit of a plan in mind, one I’m quite very determined will succeed…

[With especial thanks to John in Anchorage for his helpful thoughts on what features in the blog – constructive comments are always appreciated]

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Offers from Anchorage

August 5th, 2011

For all the frustrations of airline bookings, there had at least been good news with finding somewhere to stay. In Anchorage at least. Overly so it seemed. A fellow cyclist had offered to put me up. Aspirations to cycle around the world. Keen to pick my brains. As I of hers. Local knowledge. And keen to pick me up from the airport. Flight lands around five am so trying to persuade her to pitch up at Arrivals at a more sociable time. After three days of travelling sure a strong coffee won’t go amiss.

Imagining Anchorage to have more than its fair share of long-haul cyclists – strikes me as a very natural starting point for riding across North America – I’d also contacted a local hostel. Just to check availability and price. Nothing more. No fishing. Pleasant surprise. John, the owner, offering free hospitality and the chance for some local PR.

I’d also discovered the US Adventure Cycling Association. Or, more to the point, my parents had. Great online resource. Potential for lots of contacts along the road. So, recognising I’d be spending quite a bit of time in North America, I’d signed up. Struck me as a particularly worthwhile investment.

[Ken uses a very reputable US based website – www.warmshowers.com – to seek hospitality with fellow cyclists]

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Trials and tribulations

August 4th, 2011

Frustrating. Tedious. A bit dull. Organising the on-move from Australia to Anchorage, Alaska. Melbourne, my final stop down under, three weeks away. But always best to plan ahead. Usually cheaper for one thing. Friends had very generously let me have use of their holiday home in Jervis Bay. Hundred miles or so south of Sydney. Ideal for knuckling down and putting the plan together.

I’d allowed a fairly generous margin for unexpected delays in reaching Melbourne. And time to locate a box to package Emma, my trusty steed, into. She’d need a good clean first, along with the rest of my kit, to get past US Customs and Border Protection. Straightforward enough. Had done this before. Back in Hong Kong.

Airlines a challenge. Three different carriers. Virgin Blue from Melbourne to Sydney. Then Hawaiian Air to Honolulu. I hope. Finally Air Alaska into Anchorage. Delving into the black arts of excess baggage and bicycles. Juggling metric and imperial. Confusing tariffs. In the end, reckoning on close on four hundred pounds to ship the bike over. Even then, that assumes I’m pretty much wearing my wardrobe. Hope it’s not too warm in Hawaii.

One unexpected hurdle. Hawaiian Airlines don’t accept UK credit cards. Online or otherwise. Period. Instead you have to use a UK agent. I’d been a bit suspicious. Was the one I’d found genuine? Waiting on direct confirmation from the airline. Keen to secure a seat as I’d flights already booked either side. Flying economy so changing them costs.

One little oversight. International Dateline. Hawaii is actually twenty hours behind Sydney. Which means you take off late evening and arrive late morning. The same day. Not the next as I’d thought. So. Got an unexpected day in Hawaii. Must remember to pack the bikini somewhere handy.

When I do eventually make it to Anchorage the plan is simple. Sleep. Then put Emma back together. Track down the Park Rangers. Advice on bears. Get my bearings. Then head off to Canada.

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Coming up… in Alaska

August 3rd, 2011

I’m actually a bit ahead of the blog. Already in Anchorage, Alaska, about to ride out of town into the wilderness, the start of my journey across North America. Continent Four. The story will begin to unfold shortly. Feet – and wheels – barely on Terra Firma and I’ve already met some truly fascinating people and experienced hospitality far beyond I’d ever have imagined possible. Found myself, on one occasion, actually lost for words. It soon passed.

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So, look out for Grizzly bears – I certainly will be – moose, bald eagles, together with a whole cast of other characters. Tales of Hugo Chavez, hostel life, perils of bear spray, and insomnia. In the meantime, if you haven’t seen it, perhaps take a look at a film from a few years ago, "Into the Wild", based on events that took place close to Anchorage. You’ll then perhaps understand why I’ve plans to spend a night in a bus..

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