Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Around Xiangfan

November 30th, 2010

Xiangfan - web

For all their madness, Georgian drivers were predictable. Not the Chinese. And it was getting worse. Towns. Cities. Vehicles stopping abruptly. Bicycles, electric scooters, motorbikes weaving through the traffic. As often against the flow as with it. Pedestrians drifting into the road. And yet it is the very absence of order, the uncertainty, that prevents complete calamity. Engenders caution. Just enough.

Construction - web

Xiangfan was no different. Not just the traffic. For it was a warm day. Mid-twenties. Reminded me of Urumqi, the first city I’d encountered in western China. Construction and consumerism. Shopping plazas, office blocks, housing complexes. The usual international High Street brands. Familiar fast food outlets. At first a novelty. But no longer. Not for a long time.

Consumerism - web

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Change of direction

November 30th, 2010

Heading south. At least that’s how it felt. Just as it seemed I’d been riding east since crossing from Kazakhstan. Truth was, it’d been south easterly the whole way. Maybe east south east. Cardinal points confusing. But now, at the very least, in the turn. No longer wedded to the G312 National Road that ran across the entire breadth of China.

Through the mountains of western China, across the Gobi desert, steep climbs and rolling descents east of Lanzhou, again beyond Xi’an. At times it seemed madness. But now the wide flood plain of the Hanshui River. Sudden swift progress.

In reality, the southerly plunge to Hong Kong would start a few days beyond the city of Wuhan. My next major stop. Couple of hundred miles further on. And yet the change of direction already seemed largely complete.

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Rough roads and hazy memories

November 29th, 2010

Familiar names. Shangnan. Xixia. Dengzhou. Last few overnight stops. Yet already hazy. Jumbled fragments of imagery. Confused. Cluttered with recollections of the road. Dust. Diesel fumes. Stretches reduced to rough track by heavy lorries. Struggles with shambolic local traffic.

lorries - web

None of the places I’d stopped were without merit. Not least because each evening I’d negotiated a suitable room rate. And then, next day, presented with bill for rather less. As perplexing as the dimness of memory.

Difficult choice east of Xixia. Leave the relative certainty of the G312 National road for a much more direct route to the city of Xiangfan. A day less. But on a lesser Provincial road. Risk it might deteriorate to little more than a rough track.

Worries proving surprisingly unfounded. Rapid progress. Much of it along a tree lined avenue, as if back in France. Warm sun. Day dreaming. Summers back in Pembrokeshire. Childhood memories. Pleasant recollections. And yet, until fairly recently, I’d lost touch with my best friend from those days. Hoping to be reunited in North America after over a quarter of a century. Perhaps riding together once more. Lots to talk about.

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Amicable separation

November 29th, 2010

Parting of old friends. We’d been together since I’d crossed into China from Kazakhstan. Good few thousand miles. Rough with the smooth. Treasured memories. But time to go our separate ways. For my companion, the G312 National Road, that’d be to Shanghai. Of course, there’d been signs. There usually was. If you looked carefully enough.

Sign - web

Wuhan. About 300 miles to the south east. Along the G316 National Road. The next major stop on my route to Hong Kong. Shanghai was tempting. Around eight hundred miles east. A crossing of Asia concluded within a few weeks. But the former British colony held great appeal. No waivering.

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Cruel to be kind

November 28th, 2010

Scribbled in the margins of my notebook. Undulating. A glib assessment. But fortuitous. Chances are you’d be faster than Emma, my trusty steed, and I. Over short distances. But over sixty or so miles, few thousand feet of climb, plunging descents? We’ve remarkably low gears for the uphill pulls, and a lot of weight to aid the downhills. But most of all, technique, the psychology of endurance. And quite a bit of practice. Unrelenting riding. For about eight hours at a time.

I’d been joined by a young chap mid-afternoon the previous day. Not sought his company, but, equally, was powerless to prevent him from accompanying me. Pleasant enough, but I knew more Mandarin than he did English. At first I thought he might follow me for a few miles. But he persisted. Into the town of Shangnan. Attempts to shake him off were fruitless.

I didn’t feel in the least bit threatened by his presence. But I was very uneasy about the situation. For one thing, I was uncertain of his age. Late teens perhaps. But who was he? Probably lived with his parents. Did they know where he was? I’d not seen a mobile phone. I feared he might have simply decided to embark on a bit of an adventure, accompanying me east. But I neither wanted a companion, nor did I wish to be party to someone’s impulsive, impetuous behaviour. No matter how well intentioned.

So I kept my distance as best I could. Strictly a fellow cyclist who happened to be going the same way. Which, despite my very best efforts, included the hotel I’d chosen for the night. Deftly selected because I thought it unaffordable for him, albeit well within my own budget. It worked. He disappeared. First assuring me, as far as I could ascertain, that next morning he’d be heading back from where we’d come.

Departure the following day. He was waiting. Followed me back to the main route along the valley. We parted company, heading off in opposite directions. Or so I thought. Twenty minutes later and he’d caught up with me again. I was beginning to feel very uncomfortable. Knew he had a reasonable amount of money on him, ample to stay in the hotel I’d used the previous night. Be he hadn’t. Which made me think that perhaps this wasn’t a regular income, more his savings. Eeking them out. Very troubling.

Friendly he might have been. But I began to wonder about loco parentis. Just exactly who was he, and how old? I’d been unable to find anyone who could translate my concerns, and my phrase book wasn’t any help. Began to toy with finding a Police officer to help resolve the situation. But deterred by the language barrier. And I’d already quite a distance to cover before dark. Delay would be unwelcome.

A difficult situation. But not of my making. I couldn’t stop him riding with me, but if he couldn’t keep up? That was another matter. Force him to go home. Wherever that was. Best for both of us I suspected. So that’s what I did. Suddenly opening up the pace, sustaining it for perhaps twenty miles. Seeking to get an edge over him. Flat, fast riding. He kept up for quite a while, then indicated he was beginning to struggle. I stuck with it, opening up the gap. Unceasing, relentless riding. And then he was gone. Cruel to be kind.

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Moral compass

November 28th, 2010

The moral high ground has deceptively lofty peaks. Treacherous to the unwise. Those with moments of madness. Even if wielding the simple sword of truth and the trusty shield of British fair play. As one former Conservative MP can no doubt attest to. But a moral compass. No matter where you stand, it helps you follow the right path.

Which is handy when, in all probability, you’ve inadvertently spent the night in a brothel. Alone. Well, apart from Emma. My trusty steed. Or talked late into the night with a fellow foreigner who’d an encyclopedic knowledge of prostitution in China. And not the slightest hesitate to share it. Keeping your bearings. A passive observer, wishing to record, to share. Offering insight into less obvious aspects of society.

And then there’s corruption. Back in Azerbaijan. Ethically more troubling. Because, if you want to get things done, you have to participate. The compass waivers a little. Steadied only by the recognition that bribery and back-handers are endemic. Part of the very fabric of society. Theirs. Just how it is.

So, did I pay the odd bribe back there? Of course I did. Of necessity to get things done. Might have referred to them as "fees", "donations to the coffee fund", a "warm handshake". But unmistakably illicit payments to unduly influence the conduct of others. Bit of local magnetic variation. Just like the Black Cullins on the Isle of Skye. Sort of.

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Facebook friends

November 28th, 2010

Facebook

And now for…. a message for friends following on Facebook. Alas, the website is blocked in mainland China so, as you might imagine, access can be a bit tricky!

In practice this means that, courtesy of an overseas third party, I can respond to "Friends Requests" – bit sporadic I admit – but replying to your messages will have to wait until I reach Hong Kong. And the blog posts? That’s an automated feed direct from my website.

Please be patient – am really looking forward to reconnecting with everyone fairly soon!

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Constructive criticism

November 27th, 2010

“Criticism may not be agreeable, but it is necessary. It fulfils the same function as pain in the human body. It calls attention to an unhealthy state of things” Winston Churchill

Constructive criticism helps the world move forward. Tolerance of it one of the fundamental tenets of democracy. Explains why North Korea remains stuck in the dark ages. And where Azerbaijan will be going once the oil runs out.

“Tell me what I need to know, not what I want to hear” Best Kroner, Norwegian philosopher

Put another way, there’s always room for improvement. Scope to make things better. And so it goes with the blog. I’d asked a few close friends to offer some candid thoughts. Be frank I said. I’m pretty thicked-skinned. Difficult to offend. And in China. Besides, in posing the question, I must surely think the content could in some way be improved. Tell me what I need to know. Not what you think I want to hear.

And the results? A mixed bag, part content, part style. More photos and video clips. Especially of people. And the scenery. Help better explain the geography. Factual pieces. More humour. Quotations. Short sentences. The odd word. Gritiness. Easier to scan. I’ll try my best.

[Please feel free to comment on individual posts. Likes or dislikes. So long as what you write does not contravene English law, isn’t offensive to others or unsuitable for minors, your submissions will be warmly welcomed. Freedom of expression begins at home]

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Civic pride

November 27th, 2010

Dark. The town square uncharacteristically poorly lit. But through the small crowd I could just make out the group. Line dancing perhaps. But a bit more fluid. Animated. Brightly coloured bundles of material in their hands, largely reduced to shades of grey in the gloom. Music from speakers dotted around on lamp posts.

Lights - web

I’d reached Shangnan, another provincial town. Relatively small by Chinese standards, it lacked the vibrancy of Shangzhou the previous night. But it at least felt different. For one thing, less of the familiar grid layout I’d become accustomed to. Forced instead to mould itself between the steep sides of the valley in which it found itself, a little off the main east-west highway. I’d imagined homes perched high up on the hillsides, hundred of lights visible the night before. But, next morning, nothing.

Pool - web

Shangzhou had familiarity. Appeared a little more prosperous. Yet still yielded surprises. Pool tables laid out in neat lines between bare bulbs in the town square. Played by young and old, late into the evening. And, like the previous night, I found myself attracting a modicum of attention. Less of than in Lantian, my first, and smaller stop, after Xi’an, but noticeable nevertheless. Mostly teenage girls, giggling and pointing. The novelty of which quickly tires. Especially when you’ve lived at a Girls School.

[Author’s note: The last sentence? Late Eighties. Hitchin, Hertfordshire. Never found anyone who’s ever accepted my assertions that the novelty, for a then teenager, quickly wears off….]

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Mountains of Madness

November 27th, 2010

I’d waved frantically, pointing. Hoping he’d realise what I was desperately trying to indicate. In just seconds. An escape lane. Just around the corner. A remarkable piece of driving, struggling with the last vestiges of control. The wheels on one side momentarily leaving the tarmac as he’d rounded the bend. Somehow managing to sound the horn. Continuously. Warning others.

Escape - web

He made it. Had the presence of mind to cut his engine as he ploughed into the deep gravel. Emerged dazed, shaken, but otherwise fine. His load, now strewn around the lorry? Shale. Very stuff that had saved him.

Mountains - web

By the time I reached Shangzhou that evening I needed a coffee. Another prosperous provincial town. A familiar Western fast food outlet. Felt certain the Colonel wouldn’t disappoint. Picture menu to help. Came in a small tub. Espresso I thought. No. Mashed potato. I hoped the lorry driver I’d met earlier in the day was faring better. He definitely needed a drink. A stronger tipple than mine.

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