Back in Terrace from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.
After an overnight stop with a family "off the beaten track". Ken returns to the outskirts of Terrace, in Canada’s British Columbia, to rejoin the highway east. Start of a damp day.
Back in Terrace from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.
After an overnight stop with a family "off the beaten track". Ken returns to the outskirts of Terrace, in Canada’s British Columbia, to rejoin the highway east. Start of a damp day.
School for the boys started the next day. But I’d already got a packed lunch. Fresh chicken sandwiches, banana cake with chocolate chips and a flask of hot coffee. Essential stuff, as much for morale as sustaining turning the pedals. Steady rain and around sixty five miles to cover to reach my next stop at Kitwanga. Not entirely sure what I’d find when I get there.
Travis had returned home a little earlier from his night shift at the local hospital. Karen had made fresh waffles for breakfast. Good sustenance, especially when drizzled with homemade strawberry puree. Chance to chat a little more before I set off, considering it most rude to arrive late and depart early. I’d done neither.
When it came to hitting the road, Travis had already retired, but the boys were eager to wave me off. They’d been on a bike tour with their parents a few months earlier, month or so away, so had a pretty shrewd idea what would lie ahead.
Family outing from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.
Travis and Karen, Ken’s hosts in Terrace, British Columbia, recount tales of a family outing to Vancouver Island. On bicycles. With three – not five as Ken mistakenly mentions in the clip – young and energetic boys.
On the bookcase a small collection of Hardy Boys adventure stories. I’d always liked the one where a car is forced to swerve off the road using a large mirror. The driver fooled into thinking he’s about to collide with another vehicle. And a book entitled "101 Places You Gotta See Before You’re 12!". I’d asked Aidan, in whose room I was staying, how much progress he’d made. Couple of years left.
I was spending the night with a young family a little distance from Terrace. Travis, Karen and three energetic young boys. Aidan, Seth and Ben. Ten, six and four respectively. Lots of questions. And a thorough introduction to Harry Potter Lego. Things had definitely moved on since the simple brick. I’d mentioned having a small moon buggy made of the stuff. Came as a little kit. But it was clear space exploration was no longer the thing.
Breaking and entering from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.
Ken stays with a family near Terrace, in Canadian British Columbia. Never a dull moment…
Did, enquired Gregory, I work for MI5 or MI6? I smiled, assured him no. Bit of an odd question I thought, because, whether you did or didn’t, the answer should always be the same. No. Just like the sort of thing you’d often find on visa applications. Are you engaged in terrorism? Tick yes for a full body cavity search.. Tempted to pose my usual teaser, what of MI one through four, the ones you never hear about. But I resisted.
Gregory, wife Sylvie and their young children had just returned from the Middle East. Both were professors. Business and finance. Stopped, as I had done, for a brief coffee in Terrace, the first town inland from Prince Rupert some hundred miles or so back on the coast.
We chatted about were I’d been. Gregory had set up various academic programmes in China and was familiar with quite a few of the cities I’d passed through. Urumqi. Wuhan. And the former Soviet Republics of Central Asia. Spoke, he told me, Russian. Without an accent. Originally from Silesia in Poland.
I’d reached Terrace an hour or so earlier. Ridden around for a while, looking for somewhere to stop for refreshment. But I’d not felt comfortable there. The saw mill had been closed for a while, the place down on its luck. The Dollar Shop. Another establishment offering advances on pay cheques. A few homeless individuals sat around.
So I’d decided to head out to where I was staying, five or six miles out of town. Coming across a small coffee shop in what seemed to be a more secure neighbourhood. And with a spot where I could leave the bike in full view.
Euphoria had quickly passed. Suddenly aware of situation potentially unfolding. A very real risk aggressive bear encounter. Best to slowly move off, further along the highway, and leave the cameras stowed.
Moments earlier I’d spotted a black bear pad majestically across the road, descend into a small ditch and then carefully pick a path amongst the vegetation on the steep banking beyond. It stopped, sensing my presence, and watched me for a few moments before continuing upwards into the thicker undergrowth.
My first sighting of a bear, of any sorts, in the wild. A few miles short of the town of Terrace. Perhaps a hundred yards away, maybe a bit less. I’d not, to my surprise, felt particularly frightened. No inclination to so much as place my hand on the bear spray holstered on my hip. Instead, albeit briefly, transfixed by the creature’s beauty.
Then the realisation that this was a small black bear. No sign of the mother. Aware that to come between them, however inadvertently, would be extremely dangerous. Real risk of an aggressive encounter.
To my left the bear, now only just visible amongst the undergrowth. To the right, the Skeena river. Fertile fishing ground, and the direction from where the animal had come from. And railway tracks, along which a lengthy goods train was passing. Which, I suspected, was what had separated mother and cub.
Quite a lot of rolling stock had already passed. I’d guessed the train would be fairly long. There’d been three power cars at the front, and the wagons sounded empty, clattering noisily as they rolled by. There’d been a couple of loud blasts on the horn on the driver as he’d gone past. Encouragement I’d thought as I’d waved back. But perhaps it had been a friendly warning. I needed to leave before the train was gone.
I’d followed the Skeena – River of Mists – east from Prince Rupert on the coast, inland to the small town of Terrace. An old trading route discovered long ago by the indigenous – First Nation – people, it cut a straightforward, mostly flat, path through the Coast Mountains towards British Columbia’s Interior Plateau. Today a well made highway and a railway line. Goods trains.
An inspired choice of route. But accidental at that. For it was the only one, save for the ferry south once more from Prince Rupert towards Vancouver close to the US border. I’d been suggested I’d be best heading for Vancouver Island. Better scenery I was told. Maybe, but then I’d end up riding precious little in British Columbia. And I’d not felt comfortable about that.
The river, or the valley at least, had lived up to its name. Frequent rains, rarely heavy, but the air always seeming moist. Not cold, except during the occasional downpour, but little sun until close on the outskirts of Terrace. But none of this really mattered, for the scenery had been quite breathtaking. Wide, gently flowing river. Steep wooded mountainsides. Towering cliffs. Wisps of fine cloud.
Stumped from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.
No bears at Ken’s brief lunch stop along the Skeena river in Canadian British Columbia. Just wasps…