Ken makes a brief stop in the small settlement of Waring, hundred or so miles west of Austin, Texas
The Hogpen in Leakey – pronounced, I discovered later, ’Lakey’. I’d glibly described it as a Bikers Den, but home to the local Chapter of the Hell’s Angels it wasn’t. Instead drawing in the Harley Davidson crowd. But not today. Empty bar myself, the bartender and another customer. A large screen explained that the background music was Classic Vinyl. Mostly Seventies, possibly late Sixties. Doors. "The End". Felt sure it’d been used in the Vietnam War classic Apocalypse Now. Haunting.
Earlier I’d met Neil. He was a fellow cyclist, hailing from North London and heading west towards San Diego. We shared an engineering background. He’d worked in telecoms. Sensed a little disenchantment. Talking disparagingly about spending hundreds of man hours developing better, more intuitive, ways for drunken party goers to send pictures of their private parts to friends. So he’d decided to head for the road.
And whilst he might have barely tolerated the mobile phone business, he especially disliked the defence engineering sector. Quite clear on this point. I teased a little. Big export earner. Creative killing was one of the few things that distinguished the Human Race. What separated us from the apes. Fact of life. Ethics aside, explained I did at least favour brutal honesty. Adding I’d no illusions about surgical strikes. Or collateral damage. Hogwash. War. People die. Period. Parting with the suggestion that if I ever went into the field, my marketing slogan would be ’We pedal death’. Can’t then accuse me of being misleading…
The gentleman in the corner of the cafe, she explained, used to live with her. She’d implied they were divorced but he was actually her brother. Small rural town. The sign outside described the establishment as a Mexican restaurant, but they still offered my much favoured pancake stack for breakfast. Filling but not too stodgy for cycling.
I’d reached Camp Wood shortly after sunset the previous day. Hoping to find a landline to receive an early morning call from Emma at BBC Somerset to record an interview for her Christmas Eve show. But to no avail. Struggling almost as much to get a message to her to explain we’d have to reschedule. Options for which weren’t looking good.
I’d reached Del Rio after dark. Struggling in the rain to see where I was going, frequently dazzled by the headlights of oncoming traffic, exacerbated by water on my glasses. Inside the city limits the single lane highway giving way to a wide boulevard. Long line of motels and fast food outlets. As forgettable as it was familiar. Its only delight a clean, cheap motel room. Chance to dry out.
The cafe, he explained, closed at two on a Sunday. It was now gone three. Just the bar open. Dallas Cowboys game on the big screen. Quickly grappling with my dismay, I looked around. Was there coffee I asked? No. But there was some spicy soup left in the heater. And some home made Brownies and corn bread. I bought the lot. Some for lunch, the remainder for the long pull into Del Rio. Expecting a late finish. Several hours after dark.
I’d left Langtry later than perhaps I should have. Too busy chatting with Keith, failing to appreciate how tough the headwinds would prove to me on the road to Comstock. Only settlement of sorts before the city of Del Rio. Little there besides a Border Post station and a small motel. There’d once been a cafe but that was now closed. Just the bar. Drawn in by the sports commentary piped over speakers outside.