Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Buckshot Betty’s

September 29th, 2011

Buckshot Betty’s. If you wanted to eat out in Beaver Creek, it was the only show in a very small town. And we did. It’d been a long day. Neither of the two ATMs were working. Both empty, not expected to be refilled for a week or so. But, explained our server, they could take Mastercard or US Dollars at a push. We could eat.

She’d a curious accent. Seemed familiar, but I was too tired to ask. Instead a fellow diner let slip she was from Melbourne. Over here on a working visa. Quite why she’d chosen such a remote Yukon outpost no one seemed to know. Never quite seemed to be an opportune moment to enquire.

We’d planned to push on from Beaver Creek towards White River but Mike’s flat tyre had meant there’d be a good chance we’d be running short on daylight. Instead settling on a night in the very small border settlement before pressing on the next morning. Finding little difficulty convincing ourselves that a decent meal would be just reward for crossing twenty five miles of no man’s land into Canada.

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Beaver Creek

September 29th, 2011

Beaver Creek from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Beaver Creek. Mike and Ken’s first stop in Canada’s Yukon Province. Ken captures pretty much all of Beaver Creek on film. And marvel at him getting a few of the place names confused…

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Not deflated

September 29th, 2011

Not deflated from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Barely into Canada, Mike has his first puncture on the road. And seem remarkably cheerful about the experience…

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Officer 21113

September 29th, 2011

US Customs and Border Protection Officers had names. Canadian ones had numbers. Mine was Officer 21113. Blonde. Mike and I had joined in the small line of cars waiting to be admitted into the country. I’d have said crossed into, but we’d already ridden twenty five miles through Canada to reach the Customs post at Beaver Creek.

I’d been a bit nervous leaving Alaska. No checkpoint on the outbound side of the US Customs post. Fearful I’d need show some sort of exit stamp to the Canadians, I’d pulled over to the inbound side to ask if I’d need something put into my passport. No, I was assured, this wasn’t necessary. Carry on to Canada.

Officer 21113 referred to it as an interview. I thought it more a chat, describing my intended route through the Yukon and British Columbia. Just one pertinent question. Why did I have a US visa? She seemed reassured when I explained it was simply because I needed more than the three months the normal waiver would allow me. Stamp in passport. Six months entry.

Canada - Immigration - entry stamp - Beaver Creek - 19 Aug 11

I’d half expected to be asked how I’d support myself, what ties I had to the UK, that sort of thing. But no. Rather, it was Mike who got asked the more searching questions. But then he did have a beard.

[Please note that the Canadian Customs and Border Protection Officer’s number has been ever so slightly changed to protect her identity.. And Mike’s beard does look terribly respectable. For UK nationals note that the six months I’ve been granted by the US and Canada runs from the day of entry, irrespective of the number of times I cross their mutual borders]

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Into no man’s land

September 29th, 2011

Into No Mans Land from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Mike and Ken make a brief, if damp, stop at the last Alaskan roadhouse before the Canadian border – and a whole twenty five miles of no mans land to cross to reach their Customs post.

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Raising the stakes

September 28th, 2011

Camping at Deadman’s Lake had really been about raising the stakes. Mike and I had both stopped at organised sites, close to or in settlements, but had yet to wild camp in bear country. Deadman’s was the half-way house, the next step. Far more remote than those either of us had used before. A State run site, facilities were limited to a few composting toilets, a shelter, nothing more save for a warden living in a caravan. We never saw him, but the place was free.

There were a few others around. A Swiss couple in their RV – recreational vehicle. Imagined them to be pretty wealthy as it had Swiss plates. And friendly they were. The lady spoke good English, and her partner seemed appreciatively of my smiles and enthusiastic, if poor, efforts at schoolboy French. Very jovial I thought.

Next morning we were pleased. No bear encounters, and our food stash untouched. Agreeing we were now ready for the next step. Wild camping. In the Canada’s Yukon Province.

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Towards the Canadian border

September 28th, 2011

Towards the Canadian border from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Mike and Ken enjoy a short break south of the small Alaskan town of Tok, heading for the Canadian border.

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Increasing the pace

September 23rd, 2011

Fourth continent. Increasing the pace in the saddle. And now on the blog, for I’ve ended up quite a bit ahead of it, much more than I’d ever intended. On the ground, running out of Canada as the story unfolding online has me starting out in Alaska. So, time to speed things up a little. Few more posts each day. Something for everyone.

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Degrees of separation

September 18th, 2011

That Emily Chappell

1 September 2011. Setting off around the world. From the UK. But not me. I left 2 September 2009. Rather, Emily Chappell. Truth is, I’ve never actually met her. And probably won’t for quite a while. Instead, obliged to follow her progress through her blog thatemilychappell.com. A good read.

But what’s really got me intrigued is, well, degrees of separation. For I learnt of Emily through a close friend in Wales who works with her father. And then there’s the other long-haul riders she’s met or been in contact with. The likes of Alistair Humphreys. Shared associations. And Caroline Gilbert. Chance encounter with her in New Zealand just a few months ago.

The world is getting ever smaller…

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Two years on…

September 2nd, 2011

Ken with map - medium

Two whole years on the road. Across Europe, northern Turkey, Central Asia, China to Hong Kong. Down Australia’s entire east coast to Melbourne. Three continents. Bit ahead of the blog, in the midst of my fourth and most challenging. North America. Already ridden through Alaska, the Yukon and presently heading south towards Seattle through British Columbia.

Approaching the Azerbaijan border

There’s been a few dramas. Detention by border guards. Bouts of illness. Loneliness. Oppressive heat and humidity. Bitter cold. The odd cyclone, flooding, even a couple of minor earthquakes. And coming up in North America? The search for Grizzlies. Wild camping in bear country. The odd crippling dental abscess. Glaciers. Tough mountain passes. Night spent in an old bus. And a genuine French crêperie in Canada’s remote Yukon Province…

In China!

So, if you’ve enjoyed the story so far – all absolutely true of course, as faithful an account of life on the road as I can make it – please do think about making a donation to The Outward Bound Trust – just click on the Donate tab to do so safely and securely. Help yours truly and Emma, my trusty steed, mark two years on the road in suitable style!

ThreeGuardsmancamp (1)

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