Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Darwin Awards

May 7th, 2011

Next morning. Dawn. Solitary kangaroo in the distance. No irksome council official. Just a man in a pick-up emptying the bins. There’d been a forced entry in the gents toilets. I must have looked shocked. Money boxes for the showers he quickly explained. Broken into. I smiled. Relieved. He suspected the group of young people staying at the site might be able to shed some light on the matter. Locals. Unemployed. One with previous form with the Police.

coinbox

I said I wasn’t so sure. They’d been very friendly towards me. Testosterone kept in check by the young women in the group. Camping out to enjoy a little freedom. Released a little from the strictures of village life. Hardly rebellious, willing to clash with authority. Quite the opposite. It was they who’d sought to avoid confrontation. Warning me of the council official. Whatever their past antics, they seemed to have moved on. Matured. One couple proudly expecting a baby.

And of the break-in? Last year it’d been a French backpacker. Daft enough to boast of his exploits in the visitors book. In French admittedly. Arrested later in Cairns. But still a candidate for the Darwin Awards.

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Show me where it says…

May 7th, 2011

Show me where it says from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Fellow campers had explained tents could only be pitched in the open. On the dirt of the car park. Not under the covered structure I’d elected to use. Risking a sizeable fine. The council warden visiting early in the morning. But I’d absolutely no intention of moving. Confident I wasn’t breaking any bye-law. Or even going against the spirit of such things.

Signs said no camping on the grass. Fairly prominent. I’d pitch on concrete. A smaller, faded laminated sign claimed to prohibit use of the recreation club building. But not the structure I’d chosen. Assuming the Chief Executive of the local council had actually signed an order to such effect. Which I doubted. And, in any case, if the intention was to prevent damage to the facilities, to hinder the enjoyment of others, I was doing neither.

Suppose that’s one of the downsides of very rule based societies. Hindered by their very rigidity. Encouraging the exploitation of loopholes rather than the adherence to the spirit of things. Common sense.

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St Lawrence wetlands

May 7th, 2011

St Lawrence wetlands from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken describes his stop at a free campsite besides the St Lawrence wetlands, north Queensland.

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Carmila beach

May 6th, 2011

Carmila beach from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Ken and Emma, his trust steed, venture down to the beach..

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Carmila

May 6th, 2011

Carmila. Dusk. Harsh servo floodlights. Adjacent a small van park. One or two permanent residents. Otherwise just transients. Overnight stop on the long haul from Mackay in the north to Rockhampton a few hundred miles to the south. Little, I’d been assured, of note between them.

I’d hoped to have reached a free campsite at St Lawrence. It was always going to be a long day. Without the strong headwinds. And I’d spent time sharing experiences with Nick and Tim. Unperturbed. Knew I’d find a stop at Carmila.

Dorothy ran the site with husband Dan. Names something I’d always enquire after. Much, it seemed, to the amusement of fellow travellers. “Cardwell. Colin’s van park“. “Sarina. Judy and husband Dennis“. “Innisfail. Margaret. Lovely lady“. My otherwise not so good short-term memory adapting. Retaining what matters.

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Roadside oasis

May 6th, 2011


Roadside oasis from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Brief foray to the coast. Carmila beach. Few miles east. Then back to the servo beside the highway south. Never closing. Late morning. A few trucks. Their drivers – truckies – in the adjacent cafe.

Steady trickle of cars and pick-ups. Small shop. Just the bare necessities. Outside a steady breeze, the odd stronger gust. But warm. Pleasant. Few settlements along the road in either direction. But not barren. Yet it felt more like an oasis than just a roadhouse.

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Tandem travellers

May 5th, 2011

Tandem travellers from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Introducing fellow British cyclists, Tim and Nick.

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Ballsy stuff

May 5th, 2011

tandemcombo

Couldn’t help but notice their front mudguard. I’d mistaken it for a Pagan fertility symbol. But Tim was quick to correct me. Bottle opener. I’d met fellow Brits Tim and cycling partner Nick at a truck stop. South of Sarina, along the Bruce Highway. Quite by chance. They were heading north. Up to Cairns. On a tandem. And a small budget. Swapping supermarket hints and tips as much as overnight stops. Woolworths. Discount day Tuesday. IGA independent retailers. Fruit cake on special offer. Two dollars.

But much more intriguing their steed. Cheapest of components. Except for the tyres. Schwalbe Marathon Plus. Ideal choice for sealed roads. And stark contrast to those on their trailer. Numerous punctures.

For all its challenges, theirs was an admirable effort. Two reasons. First. Suspected the tandem was a necessity. Not a choice. Tim visually impaired. Obliged to place absolute trust in Nick on the front. Second. Most important of all. They had balls. Getting on with it.

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Queenie

May 5th, 2011

Tentcombo

Emma. The bicycle. Skippy. The kangaroo. Wallace. The wallaby. To which I’d now add Queenie. The tent. She’s free-standing – no need for pegs to hold her shape – and so can be pitched on concrete slabs or inside camp kitchens. In Queensland, during the wet season, the difference between a dry night’s rest and waking up in a swimming pool. A muddy one. Hence the name "Queenie". Inspired stuff.

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If the cap fits…

May 4th, 2011

McCafe in Mackay. Scraggy, greying beard. Blunt. But his heart undeniably in the right place. Very best of intentions. Lost amongst a fractious accent and a manner that’d have Mother Teresa struggling to keep her composure. His lack of social skills striking. An encyclopedic knowledge of subjects various some compensation. Always keen to impart. To share. Gruffly. Product of his environment? Spent an age in Devonport. Imagined he meant the one in Tasmania.

[Please note that names may have been changed or omitted to protect the innocent. And promote the guilty…]

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