Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Batteries included

January 7th, 2012

Late forties. Maybe early fifties. Fellow cyclist also heading for Florida, albeit a far lesser pace than mine. Funding his travels by buying up used watch batteries from shops and then selling them on to a dealer. Presumably, I thought, to extract the silver or other precious metals from them. But I was reluctant to enquire further. He’d offered to show me the ropes and I’d already struggled to decline without offending.

He was staying in the dorm next to mine in a travellers hostel in Austin, Texas. Friendly enough, he’d invited me to join him at a local church on Christmas Day. I’d declined. Once more. There was dinner to prepare, I’d explained apologetically.

He intrigued me. Never saw him without a jacket of sorts on, even indoors. Sometimes a black quilted affair, often a bright safety vest. And the hats. Either a thin black woollen one, or a bright red Peruvian. Torn between whether this was to mask baldness or an ill-judged grasp at youthfulness. Eager to play chess with the unwary. I’d declined. Again.

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Much reviled

January 7th, 2012

Teasing e-mail from Mike in Australia. I’d stayed with him and his family near Brisbane. The title referred to a much reviled continent. Punctuated with an exclamation mark, suggesting he realised my not infrequent sharp digs Down Under were humour. Mostly. Perhaps a little barbed in places, but that’d be the fault of a brief and wholly unwarranted detention by Border Protection at Sydney airport. My nervousness at opening the note was misplaced. Little annoyed with myself for thinking it might be otherwise. Should have known better. Fellow Englishman.

I’d earlier chatted to a couple of Australians staying with me in the hostel. Finding unexpected camaraderie in tales of blatant profiteering. Sheer greed. And indigenous cultures. Firm agreement that being invaded – the Aborigines often refer to Australia Day as Invasion Day – is part and parcel of history. Get over it. Besides, without it, they’d still be living in the Stone Age. None of us having as much as a modicum of tolerance for blame cultures or blood money. You don’t find me rounding on the French for 1066. Too busy with the Germans.

I’d added that writing, sometimes even discussing, indigenous people can be fraught with difficulty. It’s the ’R’ word, I explained. More a label. One you don’t want. Closely allied with oft-missed irony. For never have I encountered such a bigot-rich environment as race relations. Surprising? Not really. What do you really expect from the likes of positive discrimination? Much better to treat people as individuals. Even garlic munchers.

And those who play the racism card? In tolerant societies usually the hallmark of someone who has to rely on ill-judged emotion to attempt to win an argument, rather than sound intellect or rational thought. Bit like shouting. Vocal manifestation of cowardice.

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Over the ocean

January 7th, 2012

Searching for a one-way transatlantic flight that doesn’t cost more than a return has to be up there with the efforts of a Papal Conclave to elect a new Pope. And don’t be tempted to purchase a return and fail to show for the second leg. They’ve thought of that. Punitive charges levied onto your credit card.

Of course, you can find singles for roughly half that of a return. Takes a bit of searching on the web, lots of patience, and hoping the online flight discount site you’ve found is legitimate. And being very sure about when you want to fly. Unless you want to pay a change fee amounting to over half the original ticket price.

At least payment with a credit card affords some protection. And there’s a quick check you can normally do once you’ve made the purchase. Log into the airline’s own website and see if they’ve a record of your booking. Fortunately, in my case, they had. Travelling with British Airways on a code share with American Airlines. The one enjoying bankruptcy protection….

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Looking for Lance

January 7th, 2012

Actually I wasn’t. Just happened to notice an Austin street map showing the Lance Armstrong Bike Trail. His home town apparently. Told there’s also a bike shop. No plans to visit. Suspect it’s more for the Size Zeros. Whereas my trusty steed’s a more busty lass. Wide child bearing hips and that. With the panniers fitted.

If anything had intrigued me, it was the Texas State Capitol building. I’d noticed it in the teeming rain as I’d ridden in on Christmas Eve as I’d headed up Congress Avenue before swinging right onto 7th Avenue. Reminded me of Capitol Hill in Washington DC.

And it presumably meant that I’d at last found a State Capital I’d heard of. Most are surprisingly unfamiliar. Take Alaska. Anchorage, the State’s biggest city? No. Juneau. Hats off to anyone who can name all fifty without omission.

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Festivities

January 7th, 2012

Christmas day. Travellers hostel in Austin, Texas. Unable to sit on his hands, Ken volunteers to help prepare dinner for fellow guests. Alas, an extraction fan louder than a 747 taking off makes the sound a bit dodgy in places, but that’s not as bad as his contribution to the proceedings – stuffing balls – or his efforts at carving the turkey….

[With a big thanks to local volunteers Susan, Jen, Kelly and Alan, and fellow resident and cyclist Francis]

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Austin at last

January 6th, 2012

Austin, I’d heard as far back as Alaska, was very liberal. Arty. In a State which, I’d a cunning idea, was ever so slightly Republican. I’d also set my soul on reaching a not-for-profit travellers hostel in the city in time for Christmas. Not wishing to spend the day alone. Meal-for-one quite unappealing.

I’d made it. Just. Christmas Eve. It’d been a struggle. Cold and wet. Bearable during the day. But after dark the temperature had dropped considerably, and I’d been slow to don my extra layers. Too eager to press on.

Eventually realising my mistake, I’d spotted a gas station and a chance to use the restroom and reinvigorate spirits. But dismayed to notice an adjacent Laundromat. Often an indicator of the wrong part of town. Quickly spotting a few dubious characters milling around outside. Onward.

Soon in a smarter suburbs, then onto Congress Avenue. Over a wide bridge into the city proper. Skyscrapers. Ahead the State Capitol Building. Majestic under its floodlights. A few miles left. Rain easing a little.

Another gas station. This time better placed. Parking my trusty steed close up by the door. Persuading the assistant to let me use the supposedly out of order restroom. A few purchases. Then removing my wet outer garments in the shelter of the entrance way, donning my fleece for much needed warmth.

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Right down the line

January 6th, 2012

Gerry Raffety. I’d lamented his passing earlier in the year. His music evoking childhood memories of living in Pembrokeshire. Could clearly picture the album covers, a cherished part of my Dad’s vinyl collection. Right down the line playing quietly in the background. It seemed an odd, if welcome, choice for a Subway sandwich bar.

It’d been a twenty six mile slog through ever heavier rain from Blanco to Wimberley. Gentle undulations helping fend off the otherwise insipid cold. The restaurant was the first I’d seen as I’d entered the small town. Drawn in by the window seat and an adjacent verandah to park my trusty steed under. And a sign advertising vacancies for ’Sandwich Artists’. Window dressing.

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Waring

January 6th, 2012

Ken makes a brief stop in the small settlement of Waring, hundred or so miles west of Austin, Texas

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Vultures

January 6th, 2012


Road towards Austin, Texas, reminds Ken of Somerset… but for the vultures…

[Consummate wit and bird expert – Ken can’t spell orni-thingy this morning – Mike from Norfolk advises that these are most likely the black vulture – coragyps atratus]

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Semi-spontaneous irregularity

January 5th, 2012

P1070662

Semi-spontaneous irregularity.. Drink kumus – fermented mare’s milk – and you’ll get the same effect. Incidentally, didn’t think you could milk a horse, or at least the Sexual Offences Act 1956 precluded it. Enough to put you right off Cappuccino…

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