Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Salient lesson

January 23rd, 2011

Kicking myself. Actually I wasn’t. No need. Enough discomfort without resorting to that. I’d made it across two whole continents. Across the blazing Kazakh Steppe. Through the Gobi desert. Liberal use of sunblock. Swapping helmet for wide brimmed floppy hat. Light tan. Nothing more.

But just forty five minutes swimming in an outdoor pool. Mid-morning. Few hours later. Reddened back. Surprised – stunned even – just how quickly you can burn. I’d sensed the damage a few hours later. Nothing serious. But sufficient to make me think. Realising that, for the all sophistication of Cairns, this is the Tropics. Much of the town built on reclaimed mangrove swamps. Dense rainforest enveloping the surrounding hills.

By late afternoon I’d some heavy duty water resistent sunblock. Approved, it said, by the Australian Cancer Council. Dug out my floppy hat. Toying with acquiring a cheap golfing umbrella to shelter from the sun. Something I’d often seen the mainland Chinese do.

A chat with Rowan, the hostel’s manager, yielded some other local hints and tips. Long sleeved shirts. Liberal application of lotion each morning. Making it as much a part of your daily routine as cleaning your teeth. A salient lesson learnt.

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Springs and neaps

January 22nd, 2011

"A king tide", the reporter explained, had Brisbane residents worried there might be further flooding. Something to do with the combination of high water and a still swollen river. Still, didn’t justify the abusive language. Children might be watching.

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Bit of a washout

January 22nd, 2011

Tropical downpour. Intense. But warm. And very humid. Cairns. Northern Queensland. Stood in the middle of a car park. Sheltering beneath a large umbrella. Feeling frustrated. Desperately trying to get a signal on my satellite phone so my local radio station could call me. With little success. Too many buildings around perhaps.

Back in the first world. Should have been straightforward enough. But, alas, pay phones don’t accept incoming calls. And the land line number I’d eventually found hadn’t worked. New Years Day so the internet cafes in town had closed early. And I’d not got WiFi access where I was staying. So, no Skype. Out of options. Tonight at least.

In truth, Anton and Jon at the radio station had spoken to me a little earlier. Reasonably clear line, bit of a time delay but workable. But, as soon as the live interview started, the signal began to fade. I’d tried to ad-lib, second guess things. And then the connection was lost. I didn’t want to even begin to imagine what was happening back in the studio in Somerset. Some frantic filling in.

I’d felt particularly bad about it because, in a way, it was may fault. We’d a well-proven method for pre-recorded interviews, unaffected by the now significant time difference. But I’d run out of time for that in Hong Kong, suggesting instead we did it live. After all, how difficult could it be to find a landline they could call me on? Now you know.

[The author is particularly indebted to presenter Anton and interviewer Jon at 10 Radio for their patience and understanding. Much more appreciative of why radio stations try and avoid live interviews…]

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Tropical times ahead…

January 21st, 2011

Cheese toasties and ice cold Aussie beer. After forty hours on the move, no finer welcome. I’d finally made it to a small hostel in Cairns, Northern Queensland. Few hours to spare before the New Year. Greeted by Rowan and Yuki. Shortly before landing at the nearby airport, the pilot had quipped it was raining. Smirks from the locals. For this was the wet season. The town up in the tropics. Very humid. Only the unwise wander out without an umbrella. Torrential downpours frequent.

Emma, my trusty steed, and I had come to Cairns, far up on Australia’s eastern seaboard, ready to ride south back towards Sydney. Chosen on the advice of Australians Brian and Savannah we’d stayed with back in Azerbaijan. A much better idea, they’d suggested, than Darwin I’d been toying with. Crossing the continent north to south.

I’m assuming that, unlike Central Asia or China, most people are at least familiar with the basic shape of Australia. Working on the assumption that if you’re struggling with that, you’ve yet to discover the internet and read this. And you probably do think Fooknose really is a town in China. Despite seeming to crop up quite a bit when asking for directions. So no hand-drawn maps. For the moment.

My route straightforward, conceptually at least. South along the east coast towards Sydney and Melbourne. City of Brisbane roughly half-way along. Tropical in the north. Just plain hot in the south. The latter familiar territory after the Kazak Steppe and the deserts of Western China. The former presenting new challenges. Hot, humid climate. Snakes. Poisonous spiders. Mosquitos. Dengue Fever. And not forgetting the old favourite. Crocodiles. Luckily they’re not venomous, so their bite need not be fatal…

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The accidental tourist

January 20th, 2011

I’d half expected to spend New Year’s Eve in Sydney baby-sitting Emma, my trusty steed, and all the kit. Sitting sleep-deprived in Domestic Departures. Waiting for Check-In to open. Caffeine my only companion. But no. Fortuitously choosing to fly Virgin Blue north to Cairns meant I could offload my bags and bicycle at International Arrivals. Using Virgin Atlantic from Hong Kong had probably helped. Captain helpfully explaining the arrangement just before we landed.

An unexpected day on my hands. Just after nine in the morning. Flight north not until gone seven pm. Cabin baggage – one of my front panniers – secured in Left Luggage. Even managed to find a free shower in one of the toilet blocks in the International terminal. And an adjacent shop that did a good trade in razors. My own having to be checked in. Refreshed. A bit. Or at least enough to head for the heart of Sydney. It’d be criminal not to. Like so many earlier visitors.

Bridge - web

A short train ride into Circular Quay. Emerging to see Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House. Along the waterfront people staking out their places early for the night’s celebrations.

[With especial thanks to my Dad for researching the airlines, their rules for bikes and excess baggage, and finding the best deals. Virgin Atlantic from Hong Kong to Sydney. Then Virgin Blue to Cairns. Flying Cattle Economy but still very impressed with the standard of service. A relatively painless experience, even with a bicycle. Assuming you’ve properly packed up all your kit of course…]

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Quarantine

January 19th, 2011

Immigration. Passport control. Customs. Familiar terms for international travellers. In Australia add another. Quarantine. They’ve very protective of their unique eco-system. Keen to keep the likes of Foot and Mouth out. Or other bugs and nasties that could reek havoc with their agriculture. So, some pretty tough restrictions on what you can bring into the country. Intentionally or otherwise. And they enforce it. Strictly.

Seizure - web

Early morning at Sydney airport’s international arrivals. A long queue at Quarantine. And growing. But Emma, my trusty steed, and I weren’t in it. We were just contributing to it. There’d been hints from the plane’s Captain. Declare everything. Searches are thorough. Penalties for attempted evasion serious.

And I’d declared just about everything I could think of. First aid kit. Prescription medications. Dried milk powder. Emergency rations. True value of my kit. And Emma herself. Australia fearful of contaminated soil, mud or dirt inadvertently introducing spores or such like into the environment.

Inspecting officer Laura was very friendly, helpful. And very thorough. Professional. Tyres and boots inspected. Bags x-rayed. She explained that the milk powder could act as a carrier for Foot and Mouth so she’d have to seize it. Together with my emergency freeze-dried stew. No dried meat products permitted.

I’d forgotten to mention the tent. Not used for a while, cleaned and dried since its last outing. She’d spotted it on the scanner. I was a bit embarrassed and said so. An honest mistake. Been up for over twenty four hours. Hoped that as I’d been so massively up-front with everything else, she’d realise this was genuinely the case. Tent pegs quickly inspected for soil contamination. Clean. Checks complete. No stamp. Just a certificate. Notice of Seizure of Goods. For the items confiscated.

[Author’s note: If you’re entering Australia with a bicycle, or other outdoors equipment like a tent, make sure it is clean – no mud or soil. And declare absolutely everything on the card given to you before you land. Checks are very thorough. Did I mention the sniffer dogs that patrol? Well, they do. With handlers rather than in pairs]

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Perceptions

January 15th, 2011

I’m sure his words were heartfelt. The offer of condolences to those who’ve lost loved ones quite genuine. Sincere. But as a reflection on how the Queensland floods are perceived around the world. Intriguing.

I’d been catching up on BBC coverage of the disaster. Watching an interview with a well known British public figure. Bit heavy on the crocodiles, although, to be fair, not that many of them around Balmoral so you could see how they might grab the attention. In all probability, if you do encounter one in Brisbane, chances are it’ll be somewhere between the elephants and the orangutans. In the zoo.

A much more credible threat is waterborne diseases. Waterlogged ground ideal breeding ground for mosquitos. Which accounts for quite a bit of Queensland. Fortunately, this is one of the few parts of the Tropics free of malaria. But no one would be surprised if Dengue Fever put in an appearance.

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Ominous signs..

January 15th, 2011

Bit of a pattern emerging. Bishkek. Central Asian city. Bloody riots a few months before I rode into town. Then there was Urumqi in western China. Civil unrest not so long ago. Now Queensland. Huge swathes devastated by flooding. Trouble, it appears, seems to travel ahead of me. Which is good news for me. But not necessarily so great if you’re in New Zealand or North America this year. I’m coming… You have been warned.

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Emotional times

January 13th, 2011

A passing aberration I told myself. Feeling for a politician. Anna Bligh. Queensland’s Premier. Morning press conference. Bit of a quiver in the voice. But she kept it together. To be fair, flood my cottage with mud and raw sewage, deprive me of sleep and I’d get a bit emotional. She’s got an entire State to contend with. Huge swathes devastated.

Amongst the saturation news coverage of the Queensland flood disaster, there’s been the odd glimmer of incidental humour. A piece this morning. Dwelling briefly on a flooded Brisbane milk factory. Before quickly focusing on the city’s submerged “XXXX” brewery. Extensive aerial footage. You could sense the tears.

Who knows whether the end is in sight. For the wet season continues into April. But do hope television schedules return to normal sooner rather than later. Can’t wait to catch a new Aussie reality show “Conviction Kitchen“. Not sure if it’s actually meant to be ironic

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All at sea

January 12th, 2011

Wet season it might be in Queensland – top right chunk of Australia – but some regions to the south have suffered the worst flooding for almost half a century. And seem to be pretty stoic about it.

I’m hopeful the waters will have subsided by the time I reach there. But, if not, perhaps I could take some inspiration from the above video… Except the beard that is.

[Please note Ken is not responsible for the content of other websites – material posted can change after the usual suitability checks have been carried out. If there’s a problem, please let him know via the ’contact’ page. With especial thanks to Peter for providing the video clip link]

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