Across Continents

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One in a billion

November 12th, 2010

Foreigner“. The tone disconcerting rather than threatening. Bravado of the sorts I thought he’d be far too cowardly to show when sober. As is usually the case. If I was torn over what to do, it was whether to pity him or despise him. I eventually chose the latter. Excessive drinking an aggravating factor, not a mitigation or a defence.

But, distain aside, I’d found myself feeling quite disappointed. Not simply the only instance of aggression I’d encountered in China. No, it was more than that. The only less than hospitable encounter. True, I’d been ignored by a few strangers I’d sought to engage with, but that was something I’d always thought understandable. Imagining how I’d react if someone like me pitched up on a bicycle, usually asking for directions with only the most rudimentary grasp of my own language.

The present situation was one easily dealt with. I left. Already quite late. And the next day? By the following evening I’d a bag of apples, a box of moon cakes and a couple of litres of water. All gifts thrust upon me at various stops I’d made. Not that my faith in the kindness of strangers really needed any restoration.

[Author’s note: Wrestled for a while as whether or not to recount this encounter, not wishing to give, however inadvertently, a distorted picture of China. In the end, decided to publish details because it happened, a factual account rather than just opinion. Besides, it’s not really a story about aggression towards foreigners, rather one of their (almost) unequivocal welcoming by ordinary Chinese people. A case of an exception proving the rule. So far, one in roughly a billion]

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Play misty for me

November 12th, 2010

“On my own, would I wander through this wonderland alone,
Never knowing my right foot from my left, my hat from my glove”

With thanks to Johnny Mathis, American songwriter and performer

Ancient cliff dwellings. The odd pagoda I thought. Difficult to make out in the cold, heavy mist. Frequent stops to wipe the condensation off my glasses lest I come to a more abrupt halt. Emerging, eventually, into sunlight, only to encounter an abundance of coal depots. Black dust strewn across the road.

Then the town of Binxian. Familiar layout. Wide central boulevard. But just a brief stop for lunch. Eager to press on. Conscious of at least twenty miles of climb south towards QianXian, a day short of the city of Xi’an. Civilisation. And, I hoped, Bank of China.

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Out of reach

November 11th, 2010

Perhaps the next town. The problem wasn’t the lack of funds. It was getting at them. Frustrating. I’d got used to popping into Bank of China, branches in most towns and cities. But not between Lanzhou and Xi’an it seemed. Inexplicably absent.

Bank - web

Instead rural cooperatives. ATMs yes, but no joy with my card. No Mastercard or Visa. PayUnion. Never heard of it. Sounded like the sort of obscure card that some low cost airlines accept free of bank charges so they can advertise impossibly low prices.

Fortunately I’ve enough cash left to reach Xi’an. And a secret stash of US Dollars if things get desperate. For no matter how low the relative cost of living might be in China, people still want to be paid. Might have to bolster the reserves for the run down to Wuhan. Lesson learnt.

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The Fallen

November 11th, 2010

I’d finally found a suitably quiet spot. Difficult in the bustling city of Xiangfan. A little before eleven in the morning. Eleventh day of November. A moment for contemplation. To reflect on the sacrifices made by others. In wars of national survival, regional conflicts. All individuals who’d lost their lives in the furtherance of a cause.

Last year it’d been the Commonwealth War Graves in Belgrade, Serbia. Joined the Ambassadors and their Diplomatic Staff. Bit inconspicuous in my bright yellow jacket, but I’d at least managed to acquire a poppy. The Consul had likened it to a blob of jam in a bowl of custard. Unfortunately, the nearest War Graves were still well over a thousand miles away in Hong Kong. Out of reach.

But what really mattered, I’d always thought, was the Act of Rememberance. Pausing, just for a few moments, to remember those who’d lost their lives in war or conflict. Not just members of the three Armed Services, but civilians, at home and abroad. Many of those laid to rest in Belgrade were nurses. The Fallen.

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The Big Society

November 10th, 2010

Not a recent "Book at Bedtime" I’d admit. Einstein’s "General Theory of Relativity". Something about trains and clocks. But probably easier to grasp than "The Big Society". I’ve tried. I really have. Read the PM’s speeches. Downloaded the pamphlet. It was a very wet day. But still none the wiser. I see the words but their meaning eludes.

But it got me thinking. China’s a pretty big society. Maybe there’s a thing or two we could learn from them. Like empowerment. A vital part of David Cameron’s vision. You see, there’s been bit of a scandal over here. Local militias. Think Neighbourhood Watch with armbands and attitude. One of the more outspoken regional newspapers publishing extracts from their training manual. Advising that when using violence, best not to draw blood. Pinochet would have been proud.

Relevant? Surely not. Suggest, then, you read up on the Community Safety Accreditation Scheme. Quickly. Of course, I’m not suggesting they’re an unruly bunch. Sure they’re well intentioned. But they do have powers ordinary citizens lack. All part of the Big Society?

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Knock at the door

November 9th, 2010

A knock at the door. The Police. Accompanied by the hotel receptionist. I’d a shrewd idea what this was about. Aliens registration. The requirement to be registered with the local Police within twenty four hours of arrival. The responsibility of your host. Not mine.

I was in the town of Changwu. Found a small hotel for the night. Friendly bunch, but, you sensed, not that familiar with dealing with foreigners. Confident I knew the drill better than they did, and I was happy to help.

But, presented with the registration form, in both English and Simplified Chinese, and the certainty they’d have absolutely no idea what I might put down, temptation got the better of me. Just a little you understand. Did the important bits properly. Even signed it. Sort of. Friends had suggested it. Suffice to say Walt Disney would have been proud.

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Dusty roads

November 8th, 2010

I’d missed the turning. Distracted by a well made road, warm sun and the expectation of a shorter day. Perhaps thirty miles. Content to sail along. The tarmac petering out should have been a clue. But, truth is, I’d not been paying proper attention. Entirely my fault.

When I eventually realised my mistake, a dilemma. Did I continue on or simply retrace my steps? I sought the advice of bystanders in some of the villages. Seemed this was also the road to Changwu, my intended stop. But was it the wisest choice?

I eventually reached a larger settlement. Found a group sat outside a cafe. An older chap was adamant I was best retracing my steps, following the main highway. I was a bit sceptical. If it was that good I doubt I’d have missed it in the first place. A young man wandered over. Enquired as to where I’d come from. Getting a measure of me. Yes, he assured me, I could continue on. No need to go back. It’d be slower, and there was some sort of steep climb ahead. But he seemed confident I’d have no trouble with that. I felt reassured. Took his advice.

A few miles of dusty potholes and teasing strips of tarmac. Then a lucky break. A hole in the fence of the dual carriageway that’d been running parallel to the track for a while. Little traffic, and I’d seen a few locals on bicycles ambling along it. Chance to make swifter progress. For a while at least.

The road ran for ten miles or so before ending in a vast construction site. Which explained the lack of traffic. I’d suspected as much. Then a small town. Linear. Dusty. A friendly stall holder explained Changwu lay to the south, about ten kilometres away. Up a steep, winding road.

In practice it led up to the main highway I’d inadvertently missed much earlier, Changwu another fifteen or so miles further on. A steady downhill run on a good road. But he’d been spot on with the climb. The sort where you need to have your weight in the saddle for any hope of traction. And frequent thumbs ups from passing motorists as they crawl pass. Keeps the spirits up.

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Blurred vision

November 7th, 2010

Pingliang. Why it had merited inclusion in my less than reliable guide book still eluded me. True, it is the largest town along the northern valley route from Dingxi to Xi’an. But that hardly makes it notable. You suspected one of the contributors had made a brief stop there, stayed in the one hotel it mentions. And was short of copy.

Generic town - web

My next stop, Jingchuan, similar but smaller. Pleasant enough. But there’s a sameness with many of these provincial towns and cities. They begin to blur after a while. Perhaps because they’ve grown substantially in a relatively short period. Just a few decades.

Whatever you might think of English county towns or cities like – Cheltenham, Bath or Bristol for example – they are at least different. As befits the varied influences on their development, be that Roman or Regency, or just plain seafaring.

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Marching bands and Mexican waves

November 6th, 2010

My cover was blown. Efforts at a discreet departure from Pingliang dashed. The main route east closed to traffic. Diversions in force. Police at every junction. Like most people on two wheels I chose to ignore them. No one seemed to mind, the odd bicycle or moped ambling along the wide boulevard unlikely to draw attention.

But then I discovered the reason for the closure. Marching bands. Assembling at the eastern end of the town. Smart uniforms. Flags and banners. Lots of supporters. Over a thousand all told. Quickly spotted, I was met with loud cheers and clapping, spreading through the crowd quicker than I could pedal. Everyone looked. Everyone. Including the Police.

Decided waving back was too flamboyant. Best to be understated, the appearance of a harmless, lost Englishman who’d innocently taken a wrong turn. So I smiled. And pedalled hard.

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Shy of the summit

November 5th, 2010

I felt a bit disappointed. Cheated even. Had hoped to summit at over eight thousand feet. A record for the expedition. But expectations of a col had been dashed by a tunnel through the mountain. There were consolations. I’d still achieved over seven thousand six hundred feet. A first. It was just that eight thousand had a nice ring to it. And the tunnel was a challenge in itself. All two miles of it.

I’d left the town of Jingning a few hours after sunrise. Bright and crisp. Soon warmed by the steady switchbacks on the climb east. Then a barely perceptible gradient across a wide, flat valley bottom. Farmers busy harvesting in the last of the season’s sweetcorn and potatoes. Beyond the small town of Longde a more formidable climb. To the tunnel.

Length uncertain. Not even a glimmer from the other end. No place for a puncture. I’d have been content to ride through the tunnel alone. However, a young family wasn’t having any of this. A convoy was assembled. Lorry behind me. Four-by-four in front, its hazard lights on. And off we went. Hoping I’d not encounter a pothole. Or, if I did, the truck driver would be quick on the brakes.

At altitude  - web

Two miles later bright sunshine. Gone, for a short while at least, the cultivated hillside terraces. In their place woodlands. It felt more in keeping with being at close on eight thousand feet.

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