Across Continents

Ken's Blog

London calling

October 30th, 2010

As a child I read a lot. Then life kicked in. Now, as the nights draw in, I’ve the time, and the inclination. But no books beyond a small medical textbook. Just too bulky. So, wishing to keep the mind preoccupied, the loneliness at bay, I’ve discovered the BBC iPlayer. Unlike the tv content, the radio programmes are accessible abroad without restriction.

Find myself eagerly anticipating the next episode of 50s sci-fi series “Journey into Space”, or the more recent “Earthsearch”. Catching up on the exploits of Jim Hacker in “Yes Minister”. And lots of other comedy gems on BBC Radio 7. Have even found myself, in more cerebral moments, listening to the world of business in “The Bottom Line“. Something disturbingly soothing about Evan Davis’ voice. Not everyone’s choice of book at bedtime I admit.

I’ve also rediscovered panel games. Favourite amongst them is “Any Questions”. A lively blend of “The News Quiz”’s witty review of the past week’s events and “Just a minute”’s rapid fire ramblings. More irony than straight satire, but amusing nevertheless.

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Simple mistake or scam?

October 29th, 2010

Huining - street scene - web

Huining. Large provincial town. Street vendors in the autumn sun. Household goods, clothes, fruits, spices. And cash. Or at least a large bundle of notes laying on top of some printing paraphernalia. Simple mistake or scam? The one where you pick up the money, hand it to the stall holder. He declares some is missing, threatens to call the Police unless you make it up.

Printing money - web

[Author’s note: The 100 Yuan note shown is a relatively high denomination – worth approximately ten pounds sterling. So not exactly loose change]

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In touch

October 29th, 2010

Hi folks

Wet day err waiting for something. More of that a bit later. But a chance to do a spot of housekeeping. Sort of. Website statistics, some I’d retrieved, others James the webmaster had sent me. Really very inclement outside.

Intriguing. Supposed I’d been spurred on a bit by the steady rise in the daily hit rate on the website. Helps push the pedals. Sizeable UK audience as you might imagine, but Australia and Russia not that far behind. But dwarfed by the US, close on half the visits.

And just as fascinating, countries with just a few hits. Cameroon, Lebanon, Uruguay. Quite a few others. Even Iran. Oops. But nothing yet from the Democratic Peoples Republic of Korea. Expect their internet terminal may be a bit busy responding to Facebook requests. Might have to provoke them a bit…

Coming up as I head towards Hong Kong, quite a bit I hope will both educate and entertain. The usual dramas on the road. Marching bands and Mexican waves. The long arm of the Law. What the butler actually did. Mud and mascara. Spot of armchair adventure, my shorthand for acquiring visas. Terracotta warriors and tea ceremonies in Xi’an. Watching the Westerners. Some very dubious nocturnal ’research’. Oh yes, and the odd satirical dig at despotic nations.

If you’re not already a subscriber to the blog, please do sign up courtesy of those nice people at Google. Notwithstanding their own terms and conditions, your details will not be shared with a third party, visible only to James the webmaster and yours truly. Most of the people who’ve signed up I do recognise, but there’s a few I don’t – so please get in touch, let me know what you think, how you found the site. Would be great to hear from you.

Yours appreciatively

Ken

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Pride and Prejudice

October 28th, 2010

Jane Austin had never appealed. Preferred Enid Blyton. "Famous Five" rather than "Secret Seven". The former did lighthouses, espionage and lashings of ginger beer. The latter never ventured far from the garden shed. However, I’d chanced on "Pride and Prejudice", in English, on Chinese national television. For once, subtitled rather than dubbed. Drawn in by the feisty appeal of the lead characters, and a few unsavoury supporting ones. And, like "Titanic", I’d quickly got a rough idea how it might end.

I’d arrived in Huining much earlier in the day. Rode around for a while in the pleasant mid-afternoon autumn sun. Couple of smart hotels. Security for Emma and the kit, a hot shower, fluffy towels. And a chance to wander amongst the street vendors, browse around. But no. Both man – full. Too late to reach the next town before dark. Besides, I was confident that in a place of this size, I would be able to find somewhere to stay. Eventually.

My starting point had been the bus station. Taken a while to find, but I was pretty certain there’d be a few options close by. Difficult to locate, perhaps just a doorway, and sometimes reluctant to admit foreigners. I wasn’t particularly concerned about the latter. The bike, and my "magic card" describing my venture in Simplified Chinese, usually overcoming any reservations. Been turned away just once.

Took an hour or so to find a suitable room. Not so much the doss house I’d half expected, but rather a dilapidated hotel. Tired. A television probably the only addition since the early eighties. But, whatever it lacked in decor was amply made up by the friendliness of the staff. Insistent they help carry Emma and all the kit up to the room. I’d forgo fluffy towels any day for such a warm welcome.

[Author’s note: Smart hotels – decadence? In a provincial town expect to pay between ten and twelve pounds for an en-suite twin room, internet connection and breakfast – astounding value for money. And, when interspaced with truck stops and doss houses, affordable]

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Road to Xi’an

October 27th, 2010

"Endurance is patience concentrated" Thomas Carlyle – Scottish historian and essayist

Towards Huining - web

Beyond the town of Dingxi the northern route to Xi’an (pronounced Shian) climbs steadily up through the steep, neatly terraced hills. Sweet corn the cultivated staple. Pleasant autumn sun, the last of the crop being gathered in. No deep, plunging valleys or steep rock faces, but much of landscape still above six thousand feet. The road winding its way up to a col at over seven thousand. Then a steady, drawn out descent towards the town of Huining. Invigorating.

Depending on which map or guide book you consult, it seems more likely that the Silk Road runs a little further south. But, aside from the historical association, there seemed little else to differentiate the two routes. In the end I’d made my choice on the basis I’d pass through a town that featured in my less than reliable travel guide. Curious to see how it’d fare on this occasion. I wasn’t hopeful.

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Paper trail…

October 26th, 2010

Chinese inventions that changed the world? Gunpowder. And, of late, I’d add toilet paper. Originally the preserve of the ruling Dynasty, but now widely available. Which has proved to have been quite handy. Along with anti-diarrhoeals and antibiotics. I think you get the picture.

Spot of bad luck I’m sure. And a bit suspicious as to the effectiveness of my locally acquired medications. But, stoic as ever about these things. No point dwelling on such matters. Besides, with consequential progress much slower than I’d expected, plenty to occupy to me. Reaching Hong Kong isn’t an issue per se. Given enough time anything is possible.

And time is now an issue. Insufficient on my current visa, and, if I’m brutally realistic, my permitted thirty day extension is unlikely to be sufficient. China is a big country and the days are getting shorter. Calls for a more creative solution, just the sort of problem I relish. And I’ve already got a bit of an inkling as to how I might solve it. A cunning plan taking shape. Will make the sight of Hong Kong all the more satisfying….

[The author wishes to emphasise the cunning plan does not infringe either Chinese or UK law]

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Authentic cuisine

October 25th, 2010

Food - collage - web

Authentic cuisine from another nation can be fairly elusive. The majority of restaurants modifying dishes to make their more appealing to the local palate. Or, in some instances, creating entirely new recipes. Like Balti. More Birmingham than Bombay.

Chinese food is, for the most part, just the same. What you find in England is an interpretation, probably based as much on perception as palate. Take rice. A staple side dish in the UK. But in China? Rice is generally available, but noodles are a far more common accompaniment.

But what of breakfast? Noodles. Sliced, cooked vegetables, often with peppers to add a bit of heat. Steamed pastries filled with chopped vegetables or meats, flat breads, omelettes, cakes and rice based soups. Even porridge and jam, if you’re prepared to make it yourself, the ingredients widely available.

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First snows

October 24th, 2010

First snows - web

First snows. I’d expected rain, heard the gentle pitter patter during the night. Woken to find a light dusting on the surrounding steep hillsides. The odd cyclist trundling by, often with an umbrella to provide some shelter from the still falling flakes.

Suppose I shouldn’t have been that surprised. Overnight temperatures forecast to be a few degrees above freezing, a band of rain passing through. An altitude of about six thousand feet. But still quite a contrast from the bright, sunny weather just a few days earlier, then a pleasant low twenties by mid-morning.

By nine the snow had stopped. Roads wet rather than slushy. Passing vehicles a light smattering at worst. A check of the map, the route through the mountains to Xi’an (pronounced Shian). I’d be on the provincial road, akin to an A road in the UK, rather than the dual carriageway. Probably safer if conditions worsened, but tougher, slower riding, the road surface often poor.

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Fine Food

October 23rd, 2010

Menu - web

Yes. On offer is "Foul smell child face". And "Plasma surface". Tempting at about sixty pence each? Think I’ll stick with the potato noodles. There’s a limit to research.

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Stopping short

October 22nd, 2010

I’d absolutely no idea where I was. Or at least what the small town was called. Other than being about twelve miles short of my intended stop at Dingxi. But, after a bit of hunting around, I’d managed to find a room for the night for about four pounds. With an en suite squat toilet. Very clean.

My cunning plan to use the Expressway to sprint down to Dingxi in the remaining daylight had been thwarted by an observant toll booth official. She’d spotted me tucked close in to a slow moving lorry as I’d sought to sneak past. Not to evade payment, there being no tariff for a bicycle, but to avoid being refused entry.

That had been the decider. I’d have to spend the night here. Wherever here was. Too late now to attempt the slower highway to Dingxi. Besides, it was time to reflect on progress, the ever shortening days, the road ahead. And the timeline to Hong Kong.

[Author’s note: And still no idea where I’d stopped for the night – not on my map, nor is there any discernable name to be found on Google Earth!]

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