Across Continents

Ken's Blog

Laptop man

May 3rd, 2011

laptopman

Actually there were three. Aaron. Mitchell. And the mysterious Jason. Got the impression he might be a bit of a "Max Headroom" character. Existing only in cyberspace. His only link with reality a small business card emblazoned with his name. Well, you never know…

Mitchell had won the prize. Fixing my now defunct netbook. Suspecting he’d been out to lunch when I’d popped into the shop. The little computer hadn’t done badly. Well-travelled. Through the snows of eastern Europe. Across the Kazakh steppe. The Gobi desert. Tropical rainforests. Worn keys.

But plenty of tender loving care. Living snuggly in a padded case. Inside a small dry bag. A waterproof rucksack liner. And a heavy duty pannier. Belts. Braces. And shoe laces.

Partition problem apparently. Sounded like the root cause of much of the ethnic strife in the former Soviet Central Asian nations. But much more importantly, it was fixable. Back in business.

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Walking the dog

May 3rd, 2011

It’d been Kent, back in Townsville, who’d asked me how I came to choose which cycling hosts I might want to stay with. Through a very reputable website. Was it location? Convenience? If there were a few potential hosts, did I draw up a list and work my way down it until someone agreed to put me up?

Geography, I’d explained, necessarily played at part. But what I really looked for were interesting people. Those I felt I’d have something in common with. Could share experiences. Or simply intrigued me. If no one fitted the bill, I’d not ask. No lists.

pjdog

And when I did drop in, payment in kind. Giving something back. Very important. Cooking. Household chores. Tracking down bottled beer in Azerbaijan. Fixing bikes. Even walking the dog.

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Amicable altercation

May 3rd, 2011

The Ute – a small truck – stopped abruptly ahead. A stocky man emerged. Waiting beside the vehicle. Country road. Little traffic. Fields of sugar cane either side. Could get complicated. Half a mile or so back I’d had to deal with a large, aggressive dog roaming loose at a property. Finding shouting loudly, giving no quarter, the most effective technique. Seeking to instil fear in the animal. Hearing the commotion, a man had appeared on the first floor balcony. We’d sought to exchange words.

Was this the same man at the roadside, just ahead of me? Yes, it transpired, it was. Cautious greeting. Explained the dog was just doing his job. Chose not to respond. Rather, intrigued by his surprisingly amicable tone. Where had I come from? Where was I going? Curiosity.

I’d half expected I might have to encourage his ignition keys into the nearest storm drain. For my protection you understand. Instead, a little humour. Explained aggressive shouting usually very effective against dogs. Show them who’s boss. Control the situation.

Ronaldo was a cane farmer. These his fields. Things were tough but at least he’d not lost any of his crop to the cyclones this year. Ahead, he explained, the road back to the Bruce Highway south had a few climbs. But nothing too drastic he assured me. I thanked him. Shook his hand warmly. Friends parting.

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Scottish Pride

May 2nd, 2011

Scottish Pride from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Hadn’t really registered them, or their bikes, through my rain sodden glasses. In the gloom of the late afternoon. Until John’s distinct Scottish lilt jolted me into life. Fellow touring cyclists. Sat relaxing on the verandah of a small chalet. Usual exchange of pleasantries. Shouted across the wide grass verge before I realised it’d be quite a bit easier if I rode a bit closer.

I’d been heading south. Hoping, somewhat optimistically, to reach the town of Mackay by nightfall. Instead, obliged by failing light to stop in Calen. Finding a small van park. Quick recce of the grounds before checking in. During which I’d stumbled across John and his wife Francis. Riding anti-clockwise around Australia. Starting in Perth on the west coast. Already a good distance covered.

Joining them later. Exchanging suggestions as to where to stop along the highway. Their experiences of a year or so living in Haverfordwest. Close to where I’d grown up. John’s work as a vet. Did that make him the expedition doctor? Francis seemed less than enthusiastic about this suggestion.

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Redneck

May 2nd, 2011

"Wild stab in the dark" I said, pausing briefly. "You must be Peter." He was. I’d spotted him as I’d come over the brow of the hill. On the highway a little south of the previous night’s stop at Calen. Hurriedly offering both thanks and an apology. Appreciative of his offer of hospitality for a few nights. Apologetic for my seemingly ever drifting arrival date. Unexpected road closures. Unrelenting headwinds. Understandable perhaps. But it still felt a bit tardy. Not my usual precision.

Brisk pace into the town of Mackay. Peter on his road bike. Emma, my trusty steed, and I working hard. Cooled by the steady rain. Little more chill now as we continued to push south. Brief coffee stop at a servo. Welcome rest.

Then off the main highway. Back roads into town. Little traffic. In either direction. Not that this deterred one middle-aged driver from winding down his window. Ranting. Red-faced with angst. His anger quite unjustified. More likely pent up frustration. Bullied at school. Incoherent ramblings a product of his own inadequacies. Peter put it more succinctly. "Redneck".

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Queenslander

May 2nd, 2011

I’d seen plenty of traditional Queenslander houses. Wooden construction. Single storey, raised off the ground, often by as much again. Less chance of inundation during the wet season. But never ventured inside. Until now. Spending a couple of nights in one with hosts Peter and Jacki. In the mining town of Mackay.

Queencomb

Colonial feel. Punka whallahs on the verandah wouldn’t have seemed amiss. House flexing with the seasons. Humidity. Sometimes doors close. Sometimes they don’t.

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Bruce Highway

May 1st, 2011

Bruce

My Dad had a few questions. Bruce Highway. Was it the main arterial route along Australia’s east coast? The only one? Did it really get closed to traffic as frequently as I’d suggested? Yes. I said. On all accounts.

Highway, I added, was perhaps an unduly grand description. Maybe not further south. But in north Queensland certainly. Mostly mediocre "A" road. Low lying sections often submerged in the wet season. Cutting off the region from the rest of the State.

Road closures just part and parcel of life here. Supermarket shelves sometimes run a bit low. Fresh produce rockets in price. People just take it in their stride. After all, if it gets really bad, provisions can always be brought up the coast by ship.

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Highway etiquette

May 1st, 2011

Bruce Highway from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

A few extra rules I’ve devised to avoid becoming road kill on the Bruce Highway. Constantly being refined. Toying with one about simply parking up on Public Holidays….

1. Fit a mirror. And use it.

2. Wear a bright reflective vest or jacket. Always.

3. Give truckies who give you road room a big thumbs up – most do – and curse those who don’t – no making abusive gestures – see Rule 8.

4. Wave to northbound truckies – chances are they’ll pass you soon enough going southbound – nowhere else to go.

5. Put your rear lights on in the rain.

6. Assume all long-distance coach drivers are blessed with morbid stupidity. Especially those nice chaps driving for a little outfit that reminds me of racing whippets…

7. Avoid riding too close to the edge of either the road or the shoulder – it’s your escape lane – see Rule 6.

8. Remember – most truckies chat to each other on CB radio.

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Mirror image

May 1st, 2011

Mirror image from Ken Roberts on Vimeo.

Avid viewing. The mirror. Not the video. For yours truly at least.

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Coming up…..

May 1st, 2011

Back online at last… with a new netbook. Finally catching up with my blog. Rain soaked notes. Scribbles. Doodles on whatever was to hand. But no tattoos. There is a limit to my devotion.

Coming up over the next few weeks? Highway etiquette, some harmless altercations with the natives, spot of dog walking, the odd sleepless night, a day all at sea, dropping in on family, off-road driving. And extreme cooking.

Not forgetting a whole cast of characters. Couple of ballsy Brits on a tandem with a wooden… err.. phallus for a front mudguard. Gnomes. The odd candidate for the Darwin Awards. French if you hadn’t guessed. Couple of Dutch girls. Gaggle of athletic Kiwi women cyclists. Swiss nurses. Quite a few "Cousins". And a provocative German psychologist.

There’s also guest appearances by queue-averse Chinese tourists. And the usual pot-smoking regulars from some of the dubious spots where I’ve pitched my tent. Normally one night only.

You just couldn’t make it up. No need. So. Enjoy. In the meantime, I’m off to circumvent Brisbane. A scenic route through the Glass House Mountains. Two words that normally strike dread in the heart of a long-haul cyclist…. ho hum…

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